Well i thought i should contribute with something useful here. I dont think you should be so afraid of fitting decals yourself. In this first guide i should describe how to fit sidestripes to your ST. The centerstripes are not difficult to fit either but its ALOT of more measuring to do and that takes time.


Well first you will get your stripe and it use to have a slightly bigger "backing paper" than the actual stripe. This is the paper that holds the stripe together. On top of this there are a "Application Tape" that is applied over the stripe and that one makes it possible to move the stripe off the backing paper to your car. This last one you peel away last. well enough of that at the moment.

*The first thing you have to do is to clean your car ( or the area where the stripes should be placed at least ) you can also use some alcoholic cleaner to remove grease and other stuf. Dont really know the word for this in english but i think you know what i mean. No aggressive stuf that damages the paint ofcourse..


Here are the aligning points where you "aim" the stripe.


Now you need some regular masking tape for the application...


Take 2 small bits and place as on the picture. Apply the rear first because the stripe should align with the skirt there. After this you can stretch the stripe in the front and measure it in right place. Make sure you fit the small bits of the masking tape at center of the stripe as on the pic, this will help getting it straight when you pull gently at front. If you are unsure just apply one more bit in the middle and measure the stripe so it really is straight. If you can you could go away from the car and have a look from a distance. Much easier to see if it is straight this way.


When you are satisfied with the alignment you should tape the whole way at top of the stripe. Now you have fixed it and that prevents it from moving.


Now you can remove the 2 small bits of masking tape and then you fold the stripe up. Be gentle and if your unsure have a friend to help you out. Then you could start to peel of the "backing-paper" of the stripe.


The next step is to fold it down again but now you should be careful so you dont slap it against the car. Hold it near against the car but not against it. Then you use a squeegee and "squeegie" as i show with the red arrows. Here its also helpful with a friend so you can oncentrate on one half of the stripe at the time.

Be qiute firm when you squege the stripe against the car. It´s in this progress you push away all the air underneath the stripe. Take your time and you should not be in a hurry


The queeges we use at work looks like this. Im sure all graphic companies can hook you up with one and its not expensive. Its like an ICE squeege but softer. It should cost around 3£ or something..


Now you can start to peel the application tape off. Be careful and you SHOULD NOT pull it straight out as i have illustrated. Its better to peel it of with an sharper angle against the car so to speak.

Now maybe you have "to much" stripe in front because i think most companies make them a little bit to long. I did this and its just to take a little razorblade or an knife and cut it off a little bit in front of the doorspring. Then you fold the stripe in and around the door.

Then you have to cut the stripe apart at the rear doorspring. Otherwise you would be in trouble as soon as you open the door But here you should cut exactly in the middle of the doorspring so you have the same amount of stripe to fold in at each side..

You might have gotten some small air-bubbles but thats no problem to remove. You just take a little needle or a sharp knife and pick a hole in the stripe where the bubble is. Make sure you pick the hole in the side of the airbubble and NOT in the center as most guys think. If you pick at the side its much easier to push the air out.


Now you should be finished and can enjoy a striped Fiesta

Ford Power Start Button

The following is a guide for fitting a Ford Power Start Button; shown on a Fiesta ST150. This is shown in place of the boot release button, however it can be located in other positions.

What you will need...

1 x Start Button
4 x 0.5m Lengths of Wire (2 x red and 2 x black)
4 x Cable Connectors (Like this)

Tools required...

Cross-head Screwdriver
Torx Screwdriver
Small Electrical Screwdriver (or similar)
Soldering Iron, Solder and Heat Shrink
Sanding Tool or File

Guide...

This picture shows where we will be positioning the button.

[attachment=23345:PowerStart.jpg]
Boot Release Button

The first stage (shown below) is to remove the lower part of the dash. I have highlighted the three cross-head screws that need to be removed first.

[attachment=23346:Stage1.jpg]

Once these three screws have been removed you will need to pull open the small compartment (shown below) and remove the two highlighted cross-head screws.

[attachment=23347:Stage2.jpg]

You should now be able to remove the lower part of the dash. The next stage is to begin removing the part of the dash surrounding the steering column.
You will need to begin by removing the two screws highlighted below. I have included a closer picture of the rear screw as it is situated out of sight at the base of the column.

[attachment=23348:Stage3.jpg]

[attachment=23349:Stage3A.jpg]
Second Screw

Before this lower part of the column can be removed you will have to remove the control stalk pictured below.

[attachment=23350:Stage4.jpg]
Control Stalk

You will need to use a small electrical screwdriver or similar to depress the clip shown below. Once pressed, the control should pop out to enable disconnection.

[attachment=23351:Stage4A.jpg]
Control Stalk Clip

Here you can clearly see the clip in the middle that we depressed using the small screwdriver. I have also highlighted the small clip that removes the connection should you wish to remove this and place it out the way.

[attachment=23352:Stage5.jpg]

Now you should be able to completely remove the lower part of the steering column.

[attachment=23353:Stage6.jpg]

Next you will need to remove the two screws securing the upper part of the steering column (as shown below).

[attachment=23354:Stage7.jpg]

[attachment=23355:Stage7A.jpg]
Left Screw

[attachment=23356:Stage7B.jpg]
Right Screw

With these two screws removed you should now be able to remove the upper part of the column surround.

[attachment=23357:Stage8.jpg]

Now that the dash has been removed the column should be exposed.

[attachment=23358:Stage8A.jpg]

Next, you will need to remove the boot release button. To do this you will first be required to push the light control unit out from behind (as shown).

[attachment=23359:Stage9.jpg]

[attachment=23360:Stage9A.jpg]

Once the unit has been pushed out you should have easy access to the boot release button so that you are able to push it out.

[attachment=23361:Stage9B.jpg]

Once removed, you will need to seperate the button from it's surround.

[attachment=23362:Stage10.jpg]

This will need to be sanded back to allow the new button to sit inside it. The picture below shows roughly how far you will need to sand back however you will be able to test this by putting the new button into the surround until it is able to sit as it should.

[attachment=23363:Stage10A.jpg]

Next you will need to remove the ignition loom as below.

[attachment=23364:Stage11.jpg]

This is where the new connections will need to be made.

[attachment=23365:Stage11A.jpg]

First you will need to cut off the plastic surrounding the pins on the underside of the switch. I have highlighted just above the clips.

[attachment=23366:Stage12.jpg]

Next, solder the red wire to the prongs numbered 4 & 6 and the black wire to the prongs numbered 1 & 3.

This leaves you with four lengths of cable. Wrap up the cable with insulation tape or heat shrink in preparation for routing it through the dash later. Please note, pins are numbered although this is not visible in the pictures.

[attachment=23367:Stage13.jpg] [attachment=23368:Stage13A.jpg]

Place the starter button into the surround and into the hole in the dash. Then route the cable through behind the dash, taking care not to snag the wire on any sharp edges. I find it suitable to cable-tie the lead to points on the dash as to keep it sturdy and in a fixed place.

You will be connecting the leads to the ignition part of the loom (shown above). Using cable connectors, connect your black leads from the starter switch to the grey/black wire on the ignition loom. Connect your remaining red leads to the yellow/green ignition lead. You will notice that the starter and ignition leads are the furthest apart leads on the ignition plug.

Finally, replace the dash fittings, leaving the boot release button connected in the small compartment.

[attachment=23369:Fitted.jpg]


Guide Created: 19/10/08 by st07 and Emma87


Fordpartsuk:

Focus-Push Button Start Switch
FINIS Number: 1459645
Retail Price: £13.67
You Pay: £12.31

Focus-Push Button Start Switch Chrome Ring
FINIS Number: 1503170
Retail Price: £3.76
You Pay: £3.38

(Alternatively you can purchase these parts direct from Ford using the above FINIS Numbers)


Disclaimer Notice: This is to be used as a guide only and fitting is undertaken at the owners risk. If fitted incorrectly safety and security could be compromised so please take care when following the guide.

When I detango'd my facelift lights a few months back I managed to mark the inside of the cover.. so ever since I've wanted to get them opened up, polish the marks out and spray them up black (after seeing a couple of other people on here have done it think it was BDL and Simluk).

So anyway, this weekend I visited my parents, and my dad gave me a hand to do it - so i've put together a little guide for anyone that wants to do it.

Be warned, this wasn't the easiest mod i've done so far and having two people REALLY helped (also note, i'd already detango'd my lights, but you can just pop out the orange lense as you are doing this if you wanted...)

What you'll need:

1 x can of plastic primer
1 x can of desired colour spray (we went for Ford Black from Halfords)
1 x tube of Sikaflex in black (bought it off ebay)
1 x Heat gun
Various sized torx screwdrivers
Various sized flat head screw drivers
Wet and dry
Some masking tape
Some old newspaper
.... a lot of patience

STEP 1

Take out your facelift headlights, instructions on how to do this are included in your handbook.. genius Ford design btw.. /rolleyes

[attachment=16784:01.jpg]

STEP 2

Using a heat gun (guess you can use a hair dryer) heat up the existing sealant. Be careful not to get the heat too near the plastic or your fingers! We just gently worked our way around the headlight

[attachment=16785:02.jpg]

STEP 3

After a while you will see the existing sealant going soft, so gently try and pry the headlight apart. We used a large flat head screw driver as well to do this, but be careful not to crack the cover!

[attachment=16786:03.0.jpg]
[attachment=16787:03.1_copy.jpg]

STEP 4

After you've started to pry it open, give it a bit more heat and it'll eventually be loose enough to pull apart

[attachment=16788:04.jpg]

STEP 5

Next take out the indicator housing, there are two torx screws that need to be removed shown in red circles

[attachment=16789:05.jpg]

STEP 6

Using some wet and dry, rub the indicator housing down.

[attachment=16790:06.jpg]

STEP 7

Next step is to take off the chrome surround, using a torx screwdriver again remove the screws that hold it

[attachment=16791:07.jpg]

STEP 8

The chrome surround will then just come away leaving the lamp housing

[attachment=16792:08.jpg]

STEP 9

Using a screw driver go around the headlight and the cover getting rid of any excess sealant that you can. You wont get it all off...

[attachment=16793:09.jpg]

STEP 10

Mask up the indicator housing (be careful putting masking tape on the chrome bit! it can make it come off, I had a little come off, but not noticable).

[attachment=16794:10.jpg]

STEP 11

Spray the indicator housing using the plastic primer (my dad said it was best to heat up the plastic slightly before doing this so that the primer "took" better /shrug)

[attachment=16795:11.jpg]

STEP 12

Once the primer is dry, give it a coat of the black spray, and another... and ... We only gave it a couple to be honest, thats up to you.

[attachment=16796:12.jpg]

STEP 13

Using wet and dry, rub down the main part of the headlight

[attachment=16797:13.jpg]

STEP 14

Same as the indicator housing, mask it up (including the wires for the indicator), and then prime it

[attachment=16798:14.jpg]

STEP 15

Once the primer is dry, give it a few coats of the colour spray

[attachment=16799:15.jpg]

STEP 16

Once its all dry, then reassemle the headlight (indicator housing, chrome surround etc)

[attachment=16800:16.jpg]

STEP 17

This is the messy bit... using the Sikaflex, put a line around the whole of the headlight (this is where 2 people REALLY come in handy as its a pig otherwise)

[attachment=16801:17.jpg]

STEP 18

Put the cover (make sure 100% its clean.. cause you arent getting it back off after!) back on just take your time, and be prepared to have sikaflex covered hands after... We also used a couple of little clamps to hold the headlight together - although it set really quick

[attachment=16802:18.jpg]

STEP 19

Swear to god you wish you hadn't started to do this, then realise they actually look pretty smart, yank the front bumper whilst trying to line the headlights back up, cut your finger, swear to god (again) that Ford can't design for ****... make a cup of tea, and stand back and admire your handy work

Hope thats helpful! ...

[attachment=16803:finished.jpg]

[attachment=16804:finished2.jpg]

Ultra are apparently only a few months away now from releasing the Mk6> Halo Design Projector Headlights.

Now on the ESP Design website: http://www.espdesign.co.uk/esp.storefront/EN/Product/19119

They will be available in Smoked and Chrome. Please see attached pic.

[attachment=4948:attachment]

Right guys as promised here are the very first Pics of the Smoked LED Rear Light Clusters. I had A Photo Shoot at Ultra Today as they are using my car for the Catalogue, I will have with me Two versions of these lights at BW one already fitted to my car and the other set to Lee H's car.They will be fitted at the meet.I still have to speak to Sonny at ESP regarding a Group buy but I won't be doing this until after BW3 :thumbs: Sorry About the size All Pics are on My Members Page

Well, i thought i should continue with a little guide in how to get the vinyls applied.

First make sure the surface is clean. Even the smallest dirt can be seen afterwards. So a clean surface is step 1.


First we have our decal. It is usually made of 3 things. First we have the "Backing-paper" at the bottom. Then the actual decal and at last an application-tape.





Most of the times i use 2 bits of tape when i adjust the decal where i want it, measure and so on. Many times it´s a good idea to step back a bit and have a look from a distance also.


When you are satisfied you tape all the way at top.





Now you remove your "help-tape"




Fold it up





Gently peel of the backing-paper. Be gentle and make sure nothing follows with the backing-paper. Also peel in a quite sharp angle, not straight out









So, now the backing-paper is away.....





Now you can fold the decal down and make sure it doesent stick to the surface yet. If you have a big decal it might be a good idea to have help from a friend. Try to keep the decal this way during the whole application. I had to let go because i handled the cam with the other hand





Then you take the squeege and start from top and squeege all the way down. Be quite firm so you get rid of all the air beneath.



[img]http://www.cenara.com/users/ce00549/Dekal-stuf/Guide/dekal10.jpg[/img]
So

[img]http://www.cenara.com/users/ce00549/Dekal-stuf/Guide/dekal11.jpg[/img]
Squeege a little to the sides also to make sure it sticks well..




[img]http://www.cenara.com/users/ce00549/Dekal-stuf/Guide/dekal12.jpg[/img]
Then you can remove the masking-tape at top..




[img]http://www.cenara.com/users/ce00549/Dekal-stuf/Guide/dekal13.jpg[/img]
Squeege some more or use your finger. Sometimes you get a little air just where the tape has been located.




[img]http://www.cenara.com/users/ce00549/Dekal-stuf/Guide/dekal14.jpg[/img]
Then you can start removing the application-tape. Peel in a sharp angle this time also. Make sure everything sticks to the surface and be gentle.




[img]http://www.cenara.com/users/ce00549/Dekal-stuf/Guide/dekal15.jpg[/img]

Now you have a decal that hopefully look good

*If you get a little air-bubble you can remove it by picking a little hole with a needle or so. Pick at the side ( NOT in the middle ) of the bubble and then remove the air using your fingertip..

Please dont PM me about getting decals.. Talk to Dave at DMB graphics http://www.dmb.uk.com/shop.asp if you want some.

I live in sweden and our company doesen´t make "car-decals" its just me who happens to play a little on sparetime..

Hi all

I want to get the rally style mudflaps. Ive got a white ST with blue stripes and want to get the blue flaps. Are the cheaper ones at team torquesteer roughly the same colour as performance blue or are they completely different. And by the way what are Team Torquesteer and Performance Stars like to deal with.

Cheers

ive just bought a set of HID's for my st but ive heard that it is not a good idea to fit it to a car with autohead lights as it may mess up the sensor which in turn will ****up the ECU???

what do you think?

has anybody had or having them rallyflapz from torquesteer? is thr any complex fitting required, drilling anything liek that?cant be bothered with that just wonna clip em on!! somebody let me know please cus its getting wintery round here and lots of dirt, salt, grit dont wonna ruin my lovelyy blue paint!!!

if I wanted to replace my black ones with some nice blue ones (see link), I note the originals appear to held by some sort of "zip-looking-tie", can I just break these off and use normal zip ties ?

http://www.autosave-scotland.co.uk/product...3780_0_3_0.html

Hi,

Wanted to know what the best bi-xenon kits are out there to put on my ST.

The best once i've seen so far are from this website:

http://www.hids4u.co.uk/store/home.php?cat=15

Also wanted to know which was the best one to go for.

Let us know of your thoughts as im looking at buying one when i see the perfect one to go for. I am not just looking at getting really bright ones but classy xenons.

Thanks guys

i want of of dem ST grille badges but they are liek a tenner for a piece of plastic which is complete rip off!! also i have seen them on torquesteer but i dont see how they attach to the plastic grille??? anybody know where i can get a cheaper one or anyone want sell me one they dont want?? fiver maximum.

Hi all, not sure if ive posted in the right forum but i guess it will get moved by a kind moderator

I want to buy a HID Kit but ive got some Angel eyes and have been told that i need a H7 HID KIT

Is this correct? if not can somebody tell me which one i need to use witht he angel eyes.

Regards

(the man that hit a horse)

Now that the nights have drawn in, I wanna get some new front bulbs. Just wondering what people recomend? Want to stay road legal tho!

Hi all

I have seen various pics of peoples ST's with shortened aerials. Can anyone tell me how to get the little rubber blibble (i think I just made that word up) off the end, cos I cant get the thing off. Cheers in advance

Fitted my new HIDs i bought from ebay.
They look nice but one problem...
When i flash or put full beam on the lights go off completely
Have i done something wrong or got the wrong ones because there was only two wires going into the back of the light rather than 3?
Answer y'all when i get back from the pub

Was wondering what bulbs the focus ST uses??
You never seem to miss one coming towards you at night.. i think they give off the perfect colour and make the car look mint.
Any ideas?

If my car doesn't get used for 5-6 days I often find that it won't start (as well as struggling to open the doors with the remote etc).

I'm gonna get my battery tested tomorrow but does anyone have any recommendations for replacements?

cheers folks.

Ive been looking at gettin a set of white kaylan mudflaps for my frozen white ST but cant find them anywhere! Ive looked on performance stars and also ebay but they dont do a set in white?!

Does anyone know where i can get a set from? and also ive seen ones with the ST logo on them in blue...can you still get these?

Thanks Shaun

Eyup guys, daft question, when spraying your grills black do you have to sand them down first or just start sprayin, also which is the best paint to use to secure it wont come off after 2 weeks?

Cheers.