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Fiesta Mk.7 ST buyers guide

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  • Tim
  • Essex

This guide is aimed at used car buyers from either private or trade sales, and also new dealership orders.
If buying used the main thing is, buy a car you think is right for you. If you have doubts, just walk away and go look at another, there are so many about. It’s worth waiting for the right car, rather than living in regret with a lemon on the driveway.
If buying new, do your homework and research in to deals that can be had to save money.
Before viewing – do your homework
To go buy an ST, you first need to know what you want.
Have a look here (https://www.fordfies...k7-st-brochures) at the brochures that were published, or have a look at this thread showing a basic guide to what’s what (https://www.fiestast...-fiesta-st-2013).
Alternatively, you can see what each specification of ST included here;
ST1 - https://www.fordfies.../fiesta-mk7-st1
ST2 - https://www.fordfies.../fiesta-mk7-st2
ST3 - https://www.fordfies.../fiesta-mk7-st3
Once you know what specification of car you want, the colour and the age, it’s time to start viewing some cars.
Used - Private
Have a look at the market to see what you can afford. It could be possible to go for something just out of your price range by knocking the seller down on price to within your budget, but imagine if you were the seller – you would want to get as much money as possible, so some might not budge on the price.
Online classifieds are a good place to look, Autotrader especially because there are loads of dealers and private seller’s adverts mixed together. Whereas a dealer’s own website would only show their stock at their prices, which might be high and wouldn’t truly reflect an overall market comparison view.
Other good market-comparison sites (by that I mean, a lot of traders/dealer’s adverts mixed in with private sellers) are TheAA, RAC, Ebay, Pistonheads. Or try your local classifieds or the classifieds section of this forum.
Online classifieds change daily where new stock is added and as cars get older, so you can watch for a few weeks to see where the market is at. Used car prices fall just as each new registration is released, so you could grab a part-ex bargain at the right time.
When arranging a viewing of a car, either at a dealer or a private sellers address, try and do this on a light and dry day. It’s easy to miss something in the dark or if the car is covered in rain water. Wet cars hide paint defects, which can be costly to repair, so it’s best to be particular.
If you have no choice but to view a private seller’s car in the evening, arrange to meet in a petrol station. These locations have plenty of bright lights and CCTV. Plus, coffee and donuts!
Remember to ask questions. If the seller is genuine then the answers should just flow and be to the point. If a seller is being evasive or distracting you from your questions, they are maybe trying to hide something.
Don’t view a potential purchase with rose-tinted glasses, meaning; go there to inspect the car and only after you’ve satisfied yourself that it’s a good car, then make a decision, don’t buy a car just because it’s local or at a good price. The used market is flooded so there are plenty to choose from.
Used - Dealer
If you go to a used-car dealer, be it a Ford dealer or a ‘Micks Motors’ type place, have your wits about you. The stand-alone used car salesman (Mick) has to sell, otherwise he doesn’t earn a living, whereas a Ford main dealer salesman is employed regardless, then just has to hit targets. So you may encounter a forcible character.
Having said this though, many used car dealers are genuine and are unfortunately tarred with the same brush as the dodgy ones. But use this guide to help yourself make a decision, don’t let the dealer make a decision for you.
Ask for time alone with the vehicle, to look around it under no pressure as you may miss something. Take someone with you to help you look over the vehicle and check everything out. Or go back after closing time to have a good look around properly if the forecourt is an open-type.
Every Ford dealership has a used car area, but with this there may come a slightly inflated price tag. Private sales are commonly cheaper than dealerships, but at least with a dealership you have somewhere to take it back to if any problems arise.
Before visiting a dealer, it may be worth doing a Google search to see if there is any bad feedback about them. Of course it is down to each individuals’ own experience at a dealership, but if there are several bad reviews then it may be worth going to a different one.
The Ford warranties, as shown at the bottom of this guide, are still valid regardless of whether it’s a used private or used dealer sale.
So you have decided to go for a brand new car from a dealership. Either in stock somewhere, or about to be built once you hand over your deposit. But have you got a good deal?
This is the best option if you don’t fancy owning a car that you don’t know the history of, in terms of how it’s been driven, or any track days or modifications that have been done. If you get a good deal, you are only paying a little bit extra over a used car, but for a brand spanking new one.
Dealerships will lay on the sales techniques to get you to place an order, after all that is their job.
Maybe you only went to the dealership for a test drive to see what all the hype is about, but now you fancy owning an ST.
There are good deals to be had out there and doing your homework now, will benefit you later down the line.
There are several websites out there where you can place an order for a new Fiesta ST, at a huge saving from the dealership price. The top two which are commonly used and mentioned on here are;
With Drive the Deal coming out as popular for most people, but not for everyone. Compare the two and see which is best for you.
What they basically do is act as a broker for a chain of Ford dealerships. The website obtains commission from the dealerships upon each sale. Once you place your order, the website passes you to the supplying dealer (Always a Ford dealership) who you then deal with throughout the rest of the process. The websites do the job of the sales people if you like, but just a lot cheaper and which fits in with the modern age of online purchasing. The discounts offered are by the dealers themselves, which is a good way to get quick sales, and a lot of them!
Drive the deal can see an ST-3 (which has a book price of £19,745 at the dealership) discounted down to a price of £16,000. A huge saving.
If you are not sure about buying through an online website, take the online quote with you, to your local dealership and see if they will price match it. Some dealers will, but a lot will not, after all it’s worth asking to know the answer.
Searches on these forums will bring up lots of topics and owners experiences to put your mind at ease.
During viewing - What to look for
So you’ve arranged to view a car you have seen for sale, either at a private sellers address or you’ve popped along to the used car section of your local Ford dealer, here is some guidance to help you along.


Body –



Have a look around the car, at the bodywork from a little distance away, and then go around up close. If something is out of place, you should notice it.
Make sure that the car is straight, in terms of all the panels lining up with no gaps; that the panels have an equal distance between them for the length of the panel join. Check the fitment of the exterior trim like the lights, bumpers and door mirrors etc. Make sure they’ve not been damaged and/or badly replaced.
Check the paintwork for dull patches, which means it could have had touch ups at some point and the repair isn’t of good quality. Small dents may be present but there are plenty of mobile dent companies out there that can sort these. Light scratches can be removed with DIY paint renovation processes, but deep scratches may need to be sprayed or again be sorted by a mobile scratch/dent man.
Check the door openings and under the bonnet in the engine bay for signs of over-spray on the plastics, meaning some bodywork repair has been carried out. If bodywork repairs have been carried out, then this could ring alarm bells about potential accident damage. See later on in the guide about this.
It is common on the Fiesta ST to have stone chips on the front bumper and bonnet. The dealer will either try and hide this with a touch up pen, or have the front end re-sprayed. Something to look out for and/or ask the dealer if it’s had any chips repaired on the front.
Bear in mind you are buying a used car, so the dealer may have had to fix the previous owners clumsy driving style, so check around to make sure nothing is being hidden from you.
If there are issues then weigh up the hassle of rectifying them, or going to look at another car, there are plenty out there.
Wheels –



There are many different colours of wheels fitted to the ST, as seen here (
https://www.fordfies...7-wheel-colours). But that’s just cosmetic, there are plenty more things to look for.
Check for curbing damage, this not only looks awful and drags the look of the car down, it could also be a sign that there may be suspension damage, some curbs are huge! Plus, this may have put the steering geometry out of alignment.
Repairing curbing damage is only done by refurbishing the wheel and trying to match the colour to the other wheels may be tricky, so all four wheels may need to be refurbed. Something to consider in terms of cost.
As with the state of today’s roads, check for pot hole damage. Turn the steering on full lock and you should be able to see/feel the inside of the wheel and the rim edge. Look out for any dents on the rim edge or a large concentration of wheel weights, which are used to balance the wheel. This may highlight that the wheel is out of shape already, and would ruin the driving experience.

You may see a lot of used ST's on the market with black coloured alloy wheels. This was only changed by the owners, Ford did not offer this colour. Owners either paint their wheels black to make the car look good, or because they like it, but they also do it to hide the curb damage. It's easy to fill the wheel edges and paint the wheels black to hide any imperfections.
Check the wheels themselves as described above, for damage and marks, but also check the quality of the paint. It's common for owners to quickly spray paint the wheels to hide the curb marks, just before putting the car up for sale. If this is done with rattle spray cans, then after a few washes the paint may start to flake off and look horrible.
Tyres –



The standard fitted tyres from the factory were Bridgestone Potenza RE050A’s. These should last a while but it all depends on the driving style of the owner. If you go to view a 5000-mile car, and the front tyres are a make other than these, then they may have been having fun…. Which means they’ve not only worn the tyres out, but possibly other components.
It may not be down to driving style, it may be due to punctures or pot hole damage, so again it’s essential to check the inside of the rim for damage as it can be hidden easily and not everyone checks this.
If the tyres have been worn out due to the driving style (and let’s face it, who hasn’t got in a new car and given it a bit of a thrashing just because it’s new and built to take it) then it’s worth checking the suspension and steering components for wear also. See further on in this guide for information on this.
If the car has been modified and put back to standard ready for re-sale, there would be some signs of this on the tyres. If the car had its right height lowered, then the tyres would theoretically wear out quicker if the steering alignment isn’t correct. This would wear the inside edge of the tyres out, so put the steering on full lock and check for this.
As said already, if there are issues then weigh up the hassle of rectifying them, or going to look at another car, there are plenty out there.
Brakes –



Red brake callipers mean you are looking at a car with the Style pack fitted (
A car without the style pack comes with plain silver callipers, or brown/dirty if it’s an older car as they deteriorate with time.
The red paint can withstand a lot of punishment but very high temperatures can discolour the red paint. This means the brakes have been VERY hot, and driven in a manner to create the heat. Possibly track days or enjoying country lanes a lot.
Check that the brakes are all working. Slowly move forward and pull up the handbrake gently to see how far the handbrake lever travels and you should feel the rear of the car dip down. If only one side dips down, then the opposite side brakes could be seized. This would fail an MOT and can be costly in parts.
Also check that the car brakes straight and true on the front axle. At low speed you should feel it either braking in a straight line or pulling to one side. Again this could mean seized brakes. You can also feel any imbalance in the brakes, or ‘warping’ as it’s commonly known. This is a result of heavy or prolonged braking, generating heat, then keeping the footbrake applied while stationary. Commonly initiated going from motorway speeds, down to a stop. Or by going for a blast around the country lanes.
With warping comes over heated brakes, which will feel very un-responsive and could squeal at low speeds when braking.
If the handbrake handle is travelling quite high, it could mean the rear pads are getting low, so it’s worth checking. But the handbrake lever can be adjusted to lower it down.
As said already, if there are issues then weigh up the hassle of rectifying them, or going to look at another car, there are plenty out there.
Engine bay –



If the engine bay has been steam cleaned ask why. It’s not normal practise to do this when selling a car, unless something is trying to be hidden.
It’s fairly common for dealers to cover the engine bay in a ‘dress up’ silicone spray to make it look shiny and appealing to buyers. This smells as it burns off but is not harmful.
Check underneath the engine for any drips or leaks. If you are at the private seller’s address, ask where they usually park the car and look for signs of leaks on the ground.
Check all fluid levels before starting the car and it’s best to view the car when the engine is cold. This way you get to hear the engine as it would sound when you start it up every morning. You don’t want a noisy engine. If the engine is warm as you arrive to view, it could be hiding a cold start issue or a rattle/noise. Either feel the bonnet for warmth or check the temperature gauge on the instrument cluster.
Check in the engine bay for any signs of crash damage. Check that all the front end pieces are secure and not loose.; the grilles, bumper, front panel, headlights etc. Check the retaining screws/bolts for signs of tampering, meaning that they have been removed at some point.
As said already, if there are issues then weigh up the hassle of rectifying them, or going to look at another car, there are plenty out there.
Interior –



The most important thing to check is that the car has the equipment and is the specification that it is advertised as having. Sellers have a habit of adding things on to the for-sale advert to either entice people in, or to charge a higher premium, and people fail to check that it is fitted.
Check everything works. It’s best to check things and test all the functions now, rather than do it when you get home and find something not working.
Check that the air conditioning works.
Check that the seats move, recline, raise and the general condition for wear and tear. Also that the seat belts pull right out and retract by themselves.
The sill plates are on display when the doors are open have the ‘ST’ logo, and with the style pack, these plates are illuminated. Without the style pack they do not illuminate. If the car is fitted with the style pack, make sure these pates illuminate. If they do not, the fuse for them might have been removed to hide a problem. See about the style pack here; (
https://www.fordfies...-mk7-style-pack). Check later on in this guide for Common Issues, as this is one.
Along with checking that everything inside the car works, check the radio and satellite navigation functions. Check the DAB function on the radio, as this has been a problem in the past for not working on some units.
Some functions can be turned off within the cars radio menu. Things such as the rain sensor, hill start assist and ambient lighting. Go through the menu to make sure these are on, and to test that they are working.
As said already, if there are issues then weigh up the hassle of rectifying them, or going to look at another car, there are plenty out there.
Underneath –
Have a look underneath the car all around to make sure nothing is hanging down or any debris is present. Give the exhaust a wobble to make sure it is secure and the mountings are present. If the exhaust has excessive movement this could indicate the mountings are worn, possibly relating to worn engine mountings or exuberant driving styles meaning everything is moving too much.
The same can be said if you wobble the exhaust and you can hear it knocking or banging against the under body of the car.
Check for marks where you would put a trolley jack on the under body, then question the seller as to why the car has been in the air, possibly for modification or repair work.
-- So to summarise used private/trade. Basically test everything works and looks right. Check the specification on the car is what it says on the advert and paperwork.





It is also worth getting an HPI report to see if there are records of the vehicle being damaged or written off. For a small fee it is well worth it, as the seller could be hiding something about the car and it’s just not worth taking the risk of not checking.
If the car has been written off or accident repaired, the front page of the V5-log book will show this at the bottom of the page. This means that the vehicle is recorded as such and will forever be on file for the car. This decreases the value of the car and you are best off going to find a non-damaged car, as there are plenty out there.
Not all accident damaged cars are recorded. What with the ST being over 3 years old now, Ebay and other parts suppliers hold a stock of used ST spares to repair a damaged car. So you may not know through the usual means of an HPI check, you may need to look a bit more closely at the car and see if it looks out of place.
-- By now hopefully you would have remembered the phrase about if the car is not right, move on to the next car, as there are plenty on the market. This is so true and not worth the hassle of buying the first car you see, unless it is a good one of course.



You may have placed an order for a brand new factory order, in which case you will inspect/view the car on the day of collection. Or if the supplying dealership is close to you, you could possibly go take a look at it when it arrives, or before the collection day.
If you placed an order for a vehicle already in stock. It will have to travel from another dealership to get to you, either on a flatbed truck, or by a happy salesperson driving it all the way.
Bear in mind although it is a brand new car, it has now been transported twice and possibly driven a distance. So it’s worth checking it over a bit more thoroughly in case you miss something.
Check that the car matches what you ordered in terms of specifications and additional extra’s.
With all new cars, the supplying dealer carries out a PDI (Pre-Delivery Inspection). During this process your car gets a multi-point check as the technician goes through a big long list of things to check and test before it is given the green light to be registered and given to you. This PDI saves you a lot of time in terms of checking the car, because the dealer has already done that for you in the PDI. But it is still worth checking the car over in case a salesman has nipped to the shops in your new car and caught a wheel on a curb.
Body new –



Check the body over from top the bottom bearing in mind that yes, it is shiny and new, but that it has also had a bit of a journey to get here, after all, it’s new, not used.
There have been some cases where side-skirts have been missed off of some cars, and paint defects between panels have occurred between bumpers and wing panels (as they are painted separately in the factory). So it’s worth checking the car over to please your own mind.
Also check that the body panels line up and doors function as they should. Yes, it is brand new, but if that worker on the production line had a few beers the night before, your door might be wonky. Plus, he/she might have been out with the quality control person that night, meaning that they missed the issue too! You never know, so it’s best to have a good check.
The car should be brand new, but if buying from stock, it has been at two dealerships now, and that’s two washes by the valet department. Thus meaning possible scratches in the paint of your brand new car.
The dealership will carry out an initial wash of the car as a compulsory procedure, scrubbing off the dirt it’s acquired on its journey from Germany. If you like you paint pristine and scratch-free, you can have a chat with the dealer and request that they refrain from washing it, and that you will do it yourself to save paint damage. But if the car is a bit grubby, there could be hidden imperfections under the dirt.
Wheels/Tyres new –



The alloy wheels from the factory, on the rear at least, are covered in a layer of plastic to protect the surface during transportation. Also on the wheels and tyres are part-stickers.
These are applied to each part when at the factory so they know which car to go on. These stickers leave a sticky residue once removed, which is easily removed, but worth mentioning in case someone thinks it’s transport damage.
Your car should be brand new with no marks on it, but being transported with the possibility of it being driven if ordering from stock, it’s worth checking the wheels for damage.
Brakes new –



Going back to the point about checking that the car is what you ordered; check that you have the style pack fitted if you ordered it. This means the brake callipers should be red all round and that the door sill plates should illuminate.
When you go out on a test drive remember that the brakes are brand new and not fully settled in yet, so it’s worth taking it easy to start with to get the feel of the car. This will gradually improve.
Engine bay new –



Under the bonnet of a brand new car should be just that; brand new.
Check that the air conditioning works and the engine sounds quiet. The PDI (pre-delivery inspection) carried out by the dealership (and recorded in the service book) checks all the fluids and levels, including tyre pressures. So you shouldn’t have to crawl around under the bonnet checking levels or looking for leaks, this would have been highlighted during the PDI and action would have been taken.
But it’s worth just letting the car tick over and listen to the car to get used to the sound, because it is then a reference point in case some new noise occurs in a few weeks.
Interior new –



The dealership should show you around the inside of your new car and explain the features and functions. They should also help you pair your phone via the Bluetooth function so you are ready to enjoy the car as soon as you leave the forecourt.
But check again that the specification your ordered is what is on the car. There have been many cases where the salesperson ordered the wrong colour seats or forgot to add the optional extras on to the car. Also get the extras explained to you, so it’s clear in your head and saves reading the manual. After all, the salesperson does this all day long so it should be no bother to them.
You would’ve maybe learnt about the interior before your collection day arrived, by researching on these forums. In which case you are better prepared to enjoy the car when it arrives, rather than sitting there reading the manual trying to work out what does what.
Underneath new -
The underneath again should be brand new, but it’s worth popping your head under for a quick look around to check that everything is ok. The last thing you want to happen is for something to happen on your first journey out in the car.
-- To summarise on viewing over your new car, yes, it is new, but issues can still be present, so it’s worth checking over thoroughly.
The dealer will check the car over thoroughly, but even their technician may have been out on the tiles the night before, so may have missed something. It’s worth checking at the collection day, rather than having to keep going back if something turns into an issue.
Test drive - (This section mainly applies to used car buyers, but parts of this section are still relevant to new car buyers, it’s all useful information)
So you are now at the stage where your eyes and brain have worked over-time, you’ve checked the paperwork, checked the car over from top to bottom and now it’s time to go for a test drive. Here are some things to look and listen out for, as well as your own senses, which will pick up on anything out of the ordinary.
Check that the clutch is a light operation and not heavy at all when depressed or returning. That the bite-point is not too high (meaning the clutch is getting worn). And that there are no fluid leaks around the clutch pedal or around the gearbox area as the clutch system is hydraulically operated.
On pull away while driving, listen and feel for any knocks or bangs. This could be a number of things including the clutch, worn engine mounts or bushes on the suspension.
Again listen out for noises when going over bumps in the road, this would highlight issues with the suspension or bushes.
Put the steering on full lock and feel the drive shaft. Grab the shaft centre piece and try to twist it. It should move a tiny amount, but any more than that and you could have worn out CV joints, which would also emit a noise or feeling when in motion on full steering lock.
Make sure the gearbox operates when cold and hot, and goes through all the gears smoothly and doesn’t feel clunky when going into a new gear.
The steering is electronically assisted, as with most modern cars today, so it should feel light at all times. At speed it gets ‘heavier’ to reduce the risk of a sudden movement and an over-steering incident occurring. Even at a standstill, going from lock to lock should feel light. If there are ‘heavy’ or notchy parts of the turn, then there is a problem.
Make sure there are no knocks or clunks when using the steering, either at a standstill or out on the road, as this would indicate worn suspension components or bushes.
And make sure the steering wheel is straight to the direction of travel. If not, it could just be bushes gradually wearing out with age and a laser wheel alignment would cure this. Or replace the bushings depending on vehicle age/mileage.
Listen to the engine when cold and warm and after a drive to see if it changes its sound at all. A worn engine will change pitch during temperature changes. There are cases of vehicles being sold on ebay with knocking engines, so even though they are only 3 years old at the oldest, the engines are not solid if not looked after.
Make sure the engine pulls fine through the rev-range and is responsive.
As said already, if there are issues then weigh up the hassle of rectifying them, or going to look at another car, there are plenty out there.
Paperwork –


Paperwork is important, after all it is the thing that you can easily keep a track of and shows up any discrepancies.
If the car is advertised as a 1 owner car, and they have had it since new, ask to see the original purchase invoice. This will show what was ordered on the car when it was made. Then check the car for these features, so you are indeed buying what it is advertised as.
Check the V5 log book to make sure it matches the car, this is far too often over looked and fake documents can easily be produced. Check the registration against the car and the VIN number also.
Also on the car itself, check that all the VIN numbers match each other. You have one on the nearside lower area of the windscreen, one stamped in the floor of the driver’s area near the pedals and a sticker on the B-pillar as you open the driver’s door.
Also check the address you are at with the car, against that of the log book. Again this is important if the log book is a fake and you are in a different part of the country than what is on the V5.
Check the MOT if the car is old enough. You can actually do online MOT checks now (
Check the service book to see the stamp entry. Check the mileage also.
Servicing can be carried out by a Ford dealer, or by a VAT registered garage using Ford parts stating so on the invoice. But some buyers would prefer to see a Full-Ford service history than a back-street garage. Depends on how skint the owner of the car was. Otherwise this voids the cars warranty.
You can tell a lot about a car by its paperwork history. Things like where it lived (maybe beside the sea-side, so the paintwork might have had a hard life), how many miles it done a year (then you can work out if they were mainly motorway miles), what repairs have been done.
It’s good advice to see all the paperwork before you buy, rather than buy the car with the promise that the owner will forward the paperwork on.
As said already, if there are issues then weigh up the hassle of rectifying them, or going to look at another car, there are plenty out there.
If you do decide to purchase the car and have to leave a deposit, obtain a receipt for this payment.
By now you would have checked the HPI status on the car, and maybe learnt there is finance on the car. This is the easiest way to purchase a new car, so it’s common. What is also common is you giving your money to the owner, then they ring up the finance company to clear the outstanding amount there and then in front of you. Do not leave there until you have seen confirmation that the finance has been settled. It’s a common procedure and is the easiest way of clearing the finance, which then allows the vehicle to be transferred to another owner.
Plus, don’t forget to factor the cost of road tax into your budget.
After purchasing
So hopefully you had a good look over and around the car, testing all the functions and had a satisfactory test drive. Then you browsed the paperwork side of things and agreed to buy the car. Congratulations, you now own an iconic car!
Now you can reap the benefits of being so particular while finding the appropriate car to own. If you done your job correctly, and you took something from this guide, then you should enjoy hassle-free motoring.
But things can pop up from time to time. Check the common issues list and maybe check your car to help prevent these from leaving you stranded one day.
Or if you have purchased new, time to put some miles on the clock.
The only real things to say now are; Enjoy the car steadily and get used to it, and secure it so you can enjoy it for a long time to come.
When I say secure it I mean theft prevention. There are many ways to do this, some subtle, some not-so subtle.
The most effective way to secure your newly purchased ST would be a Disk-lock steering wheel lock. Other things include disabling the OBD port under the dash board, fitting a vehicle tracker or even a wheel-clamp if you’re going on holiday. A search of these forums will bring up many methods to secure your pride and joy.
Now you are an ST owner you can get yourself along to shows and events to meet like-minded other owners. These forums provide a good base for owners and has a vast array of information.
To obtain more information on specific subjects, and to help keep the forum going, you can become a ‘paid up member’ of the forum. For a small annual fee, you are granted access to the technical areas of this forum, which boasts a huge amount of information which can easily be sorted through by using the search function at the top right of the page.
Don’t forget to get GAP insurance also. There are lots of good deals about and it can be obtained for around £120.
Common issues
There are many common issues, some were highlighted when the cars were new, but a re-call resolved the issue, and some are on-going and some age-related ones have only just appeared.
Sill plates -



The illuminated sill plates that come in the Style Pack often fail leaving one half lit up and the other either dull or not lit at all. This is a wiring issue from the sill plate to the wiring loom inside the car as it passes into the car, the wire connections break.
Ford will cover this part within the first year of the vehicles life, but other people have had success after a year, after categorising the part un fit for purpose.
If your vehicle was made before September 2014, the sill plate was only covered for one year. If your car was made after September 2014, the sill plates were covered for 3 years.
Radio -

The radio suffers from DAB problems on the ST2 and ST3. This occurred in 2013 vehicles and may have been rectified now. The only way to rectify it is to replace the radio unit.
Ford should do this under warranty. The problem is that the DAB function would not pick up any signal.
Clutch -
The clutch slave cylinder is another common issue. The clutch is a hydraulic system and the slave cylinder, which is located inside the gearbox and depresses the clutch plate fails. This leaves your clutch pedal on the floor with no clutch action.
Engine mount -




The offside upper engine mount can fail. It does give warning by an audible knock. Eventually the thread of the bolt shears and the engine comes loose from its mount. The engine then falls backwards which then causes the driveshaft to be dislodged, causing no drive and an awful racket. The engine mount is located under the water header tank.
If you hear any knocking coming from this area, check that it is tight.
Header tank cap -
The water header tank cap can also fail, due to it only being removed once a year. A replacement cap is the only solution.
Tyre Valves -
The metal tyre valves that were fitted can fail, causing flat tyres. The metal valve leaks, causing a slow puncture, but a trip back to Ford will rectify the problem under warranty.
Ford changed to rubber valves after countless issues with the metal valves.
DRL's -
The LED daytime running lights (DRL’s) on the front of the ST2 and ST3 models can fail. Not completely, but as you operate the indicator, the DRL dims slightly on the side the indicator is illuminated. Once the indicator is switched off, the DRL should revert back to its original brightness. The issue is that the DRL stays dim. A replacement under warranty at Ford is the only solution.
This is by no means the extent of the list, there are no doubt many more issues that occur. These are just the more commonly mentioned issues.
If you have an issue not listed, perform a search using the box at the top right of the page, or if no joy there, create a thread ask away, everyone here is friendly. :cheers: 
--- Edit August 2017 ---
I have been working on something for a while now, and can finally publish this. What to look for in terms of identity, when buying a Fiesta ST.
With the second hand market being more dense than ever and having seen a lot of vehicles being accident-repaired, it's easy to hide a dodgy-vehicle in amongst the crowd. It's not new news that a lot of vehicles have been stolen, and it's easy for a vehicle's identity to be manipulated. So this will help potential buyers spot anything amiss.
This identity guide shows how to check the car over, with ease and also provides detailed analysis of the VIN plus the trim and paint codes used on the Fiesta ST's.
Check it out here; 



--- Edit October 2020 ---


Lockdown has got me creating another Fiesta ST resource website, slightly different than the original. View it here for more information;

  • terry300577, AMc, Luke_77 and 14 others like this


  • Forum User
  • 1401 posts

Even though I've owned my car almost a year this was great to read. Didn't know about the DRL's failing, will keep an eye out for this.


Thanks Tim!

  • Tim likes this


  • Forum User
  • 65 posts
  • Dale
  • Nottingham

This was amazing for someone like me who is looking to buy a Fiesta ST. Cheers for the links and all the information!

  • Tim and West4394 like this


  • Forum User
  • 4216 posts

Nice guide @Tim


This should be pinned to help new members

  • Tim and Wizzer67 like this


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  • 1125 posts
  • Anthony
  • Havant, Hampshire
Nice read mate....well done sir!! :)
  • Tim likes this



    "Race Red Owner"

  • Club Member
  • 5903 posts
Nice guide @Tim thankyou
  • Tim likes this


  • Forum User
  • 81 posts

Cheers Tim, I only went and bought one yesterday so your a day late ;)!!!!

  • Tim likes this



    'Mk7 Noob'

  • Club Staff
  • 23069 posts

Nicely done Tim.  As discussed I have now pinned this and rightly so :)

  • Tim and Jaf2212 like this


  • Forum User
  • 339 posts
  • West Sussex

Good work  :yep:

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  • Tim
  • Essex

Thanks all, I will continually scour the forums and if regular questions or vehicle issues crop up, I will add them in this guide to save others searching or posting repeat questions.




  • Forum User
  • 322 posts

Brilliant read, and not just for the ST but for car buying as a whole!


Be sure to refer to this when I am finally in the market for my own   :original: 


  • Forum User
  • 7 posts

Great info mate .. if anyone is interested http://www.fiestasto...5901c3411f62527


  • Forum User
  • 65 posts
  • Jonny
  • Caernarfon

Great info mate .. if anyone is interested http://www.fiestasto...5901c3411f62527

Unless u buying a newer one.... DÔNT DO IT haha

  • jamar9814 likes this


  • Forum User
  • 2810 posts

Great guide this!

  • Tim likes this


  • Forum User
  • 159 posts
  • Rob
  • Birmingham

^This. Great work Tim.

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