NOTE TO NEW MEMBERS Please do not ask questions about any of the below in this topic, make a new topic. This will result in this thread being moved to a different section of the forum available to "Paid Members" only, and therefore, won't be seen by its intended audience. Thanks on behalf of Yarde and the FiestaSTOC staff
Please note, this is what I've learnt over my time on the FiestaSTOC forum and in the ST circle. The information provided is correct to my knowledge, however, things may change over time and this guide may not be reflected to suit. I have no responsibility to any problems that arise as a result of you reading this information
Links to threads were correct and working at time of writing.
Why should I read this?
A lot of people buy a car and don't know where to start. They join an owners club, as your reading this on FiestaSTOC.com, you've already done that part! Joining an Owners Club (OC) is the best way to learn about your car, however, the established members will know a lot more about your car than you do, I've aimed to consolidate all of the major things I've learnt into one place, and link to the appropriate guides and threads when I can. So read, enjoy and hoon responsibly!
About the Fiesta ST
The Fiesta ST/XR4 was the performance model of this Fiesta. It includes a 2 litre Duratec Petrol Engine rated at 150 bhp in standard form, with a top speed of 129 mph. The Fiesta ST also features 17 inch alloy wheels, different front and rear bumpers, side skirts, body colour handles and bump strips, partial leather seats and a ST logo on the front seat backs and on the steering wheel.
In Australia, the Fiesta ST was sold as the Fiesta XR4. To stay in line with all sports model Fords sold in Australia it received the 'XR' badging, instead of the 'ST' badging used in Europe. The vehicle was unveiled at the 2004 Geneva Motor Show
Although there are slight variations in colour availability depending on which market the Fiesta ST was sold in, the colours available in the UK were:
- Panther Black
- Performance Blue (Often shorted to Perf Blue or PB)
- Diamond White (later superseded by Frozen White - Often shortened to FW)
- Moondust Silver
- Colorado Red
Prefacelift (MK6) and Facelift (MK6.5) & The ST500
In November 2005, a revised version of the fifth generation Fiesta went on sale. A number of cosmetic changes were introduced. Inside, the dashboard was redesigned with better quality soft touch materials, following criticisms of the hard, cheaply textured original. A new analogue instrument display is included. The facelift also includes new technology, including power folding mirrors, automatic and 'home-safe' headlights, automatic windscreen wipers, Bluetooth with voice control, Trip Computer, MP3 Player Connectivity and the Electronic Stability Program.
The following is a by no means definitive list of some of the major changes to the ST, postfacelift:
- Front Headlight redesign
- New style Rear lights - 2 reversing lights & 2 fog lights
- soft touch dash facia available in Blue, Red and Pewter (Grey)
- Dials which now include analogue fuel and temp gauges
- Onboard computer - Outside Temperature / Average MPG / Miles left / Average speed
- 1 touch down electric windows
- Gear lever surround and interior door handles are now shiny finish
- Vents for side windows have been moved onto the dash
- Sidelights switch on when unlocked (Home Safe Lights)
- New style CD player (6 Disc Changer or Sony Digital Unit)
- Reshaped Steering wheel airbag
- Variable timing wipers
- Lane change indicators (1 touch 3 flashes)
New added options
- Bluetooth hands free phone with voice control system
- Portable music connection socket (AUX Input)
- Electric folding mirrors
- Rain sensor including auto headlights activation
- EATC - Electronic Auto Temperature control
- Second remote key
Thread Link: http://www.fiestasto...celift-updates/
The ST 500
The ST 500 was a limited production (500 vehicles) model of the Fiesta ST. It includes 17 inch 11-spoke black alloy wheels, red brake calipers, unique exterior vinyl graphics and carbon fibre pattern interior trim. The interior also features a Sony audio system and ebony leather heated seats.
With this section, I will try to remain subjective and not inject my own opinion. This section aims to provide facts and inform new owners of the products that are available. This is by no means a definitive list of what is available. As with all forms of modification, your car is your own, you can do with it as you please. The following are just a selection of the most common modifications.
All modifications MUST be declared to your insurance company. No excuses. By driving a undeclared, modified car, you run the risk of invalidating your policy in the event of an accident.
As with a lot of previous "hot" Fords, and other cars in general, the popularity of the Fiesta ST spawned a substantial market of 3rd Party product producers allowing owners to modify, tune and personal their ST to make it their own. This market covers both Performance and Interior and Exterior Aesthetics.
To allow the Fiesta ST to be marketed to a younger audience, the Fiesta ST was purposely "restricted" or undertuned to limit the power output of the engine, thus allowing the ST to classify under a lower insurance group. These restrictions, with a few aftermarket parts, can be removed to release further potential from the ST's Duratec engine.
The standard air filtration system on the Fiesta ST is a labyrinth of restrictive pipework. When replaced with an aftermarket system, gains of up to 5bhp* (*engine dependent) are not uncommon. In this section I aim to cover some of the most common options. The easiest thing to remember when it comes to air filter systems. Cold air is good, hot air is bad.
One option is remove the standard filter in the standard cooling system and replace it with an aftermarket panel filter, K&N is a popular choice. This helps improve the flow rate through the system, allowing more air into the engine.
However, to see major improvements in cold air draw, it is necessary to remove the standard system entirely and replace it with something like the K&N 57i. This system removes the maze of pipework and allows a much more direct route to the cold air. A simple 90 degree, 70mm elbow pipe attached to a cone filter. Combined with the routing of cold air feeds from the lower grill on the front bumper (another popular options is to remove the front fog lights and run the ducts to the gap left by the now vacant fog), the amount of cold air being drawn in is greatly increased.
Replacing the Standard Black K&N Elbow
As your modding obsession grows, attention is destined to turn focus to your engine bay. Although its not really possible to modify the K&N filter. One common change is to swap out the standard plastic elbow for a coloured silicone variety.
There are a good few suppliers out there include ASH, Samco and Roose Motorsport. For an air hose, quality probably isn't of upmost importance, or not as important as hoses that carry fuel, water, coolant, oil or similar critical fluids. Aftermarket silicone elbows come in all shapes, sizes and colours. The important facts for the elbow are listed below:
Internal Bore: 70mm
Bend: 90 degrees
Now, to get the silicone elbow to sit correctly on both ends (throttle body and filter cone) you may need to use the standard black elbow to create a sleeve to facilitate a better fit. Now, what to do with the breather hose. Besides using the standard black hose you received as part of the K&N 57i kit, You have two additional options:
1) Replace it with a colour coded aftermarket hose.
2) Remove it
If you wish to replace the hose with an aftermarket hose, you'll need about 1m (this should leave you some spare). Always double check measurements before you purchase any hoses. Again, you can get these from pretty much anywhere online, and its a similar air pipe (often referred to as Vacuum pipes or hoses). Important specs below:
Internal Bore: 13mm
If you wish to remove this breather hose altogether, often done to tidy up / declutter the engine bay, you'll need 2 additional parts.
1) Some way to blank the hole (15mm) that will be left in the K&N cone base. This will have to be measured before you purchase your own bung. ASH motorsport to make a billet alloy blanking bung.
2) A Breather Filter for the Cam Cover - This is a small air filter that attaches directly to the Cam cover to filter the oil vapours and keep them out of the engine bay. 12mm diameter for the connector is needed
NOTE ABOUT COLOURS: Be aware, manufacturers often charge a premium for non-standard colours (often limited to Blue, Red and Black, but not unknown to be purely limited to blue). You may incur an additional charge if you wanted a yellow/orange/green elbow for example. You may also face long lead times of 2-4 weeks on your order, as your elbow will be a special order for the manufacturer.[/i]
Mountune Cold Air Induction System (CAIS)
Often described as a "K&N in a box", the Mountune CAIS is a closed system, which helps minimise heat soak from ambient engine bay air, and draws air purely from the cold air feed on base of the unit. This works in a similar way to the K&N 57i, removing vast amounts of pipework and allowing more cold air into the system.
There is somewhat of an ongoing debate as to if the CAIS is worth spending the extra on over a K&N 57i. At time of writing, the CAIS is nearly twice the price of the K&N 57i. This is an debate I shall not cover here as I do not have the facts to form a concise argument.
For the sake of roundness, there are other systems, although less popular, that you may see referenced in various project threads around the way, these being:
- Graham Goode Racing (GGR) CAIS
- K&N Typhoon
- Pipercross are also common alternatives
The Fiesta ST exhaust system is commonly referenced as being in four main sections:
- Flexi Pipe
- Cat Assembly
- Cat Back
As mentioned above, the Fiesta ST is rather restricted by these factory fitted parts, and changing them can yield some impressive results, and not to mention, sounds!
NOTE: The factory system is welded together in places, and not necessarily a straight swap between standard and aftermarket parts. If you are not confident to carry out the work yourself, please consult a professional / specialist.
Which manufacturer you choose depends what sound you want from your exhaust. The best way, in my opinion, to choose your exhaust, is to hear one in person, head down to your local Fiesta ST meet and listen to what sound you want and go from there.
You don't have to change your full exhaust in one go. You can start with a manifold, then add a cat or catback, start with the Catback and work back towards the engine, or do the whole system in one.
NOTE: Cheap eBay systems - These are systems advertised a ~£300 for the full system (Manifold, Sports Cat / Decat and Catback) Baring in mind, a full system from a reputable manufacturer is ~£1000, the quality is expected to be substantially less. The decision to take the risk is your own, but it is universally advised to avoid these systems.
Popular manufacturers, include, but are NOT limited to:
Each manufacturer is slightly different, resulting in different sounds and appearances (especially on Cat Backs). Popular options for Cat Back tips (the bit that sticks out the back of the car) include:
- Roll Direction - Inward or Outward Rolled (Which way the metal at the end of the tip folds)
- Tailpipe size - Ranges between 3" and 4.5", Standard is 2.5"
- Cut Style - Straight Cut or Slash Cut.
Sports Cats and Decats
Again, there is much debate between owners on this issue, between which is better, Sports Cat or Decat. Again, I will not cover this debate here, but will mention the legalities surrounding the Decat option, namely, a Decat is illegal and should not pass an MOT. However, there are some "friendly" MOT testers that will pass a decatted car.
Decats are a lot more likely to cause your Engine Management Light (EML) to illuminate on your dashboard due to incorrect pollution reads in the second sensor. This often solved by putting spacers between this sensor and the decat, or, alternative, having a custom remap (more on this later) to remove this error from the system (commonly referred to as "Mapping out the error")
Please also note, the Police are well within their right to cause you problems for running a car without a cat. I'm avoiding specific Police / Legal terms as I don't know what specific powers they hold.
Thread of Interest The Fiesta ST MK6 Exhaust Thread by Alec M - http://www.fiestasto...m/#entry1050154
Uprated Camshafts (aka Cams) and Valve Springs
Another common tuning option. This is often the first step towards serious power output from the Fiesta ST. Popular manufacturers include, but are NOT limited to:
When choosing cams, it is probably best to ask on the STOC as to which cams are best suited to your vehicles usage. Cams often require specialist knowledge to be fitted, so ensure that your chosen garage / mechanic is able to confidentially fit Cams before purchasing.
NOTE: Although not necessary, a remap may be required to allow your ST to run correct with uprated Cams installed.
Thread of Interest: http://www.fiestasto...8797-cams-kits/
Moving on well from Camshafts comes the Inlet Manifold. Cams and Inlet Manifolds are often upgraded at the same time, again, due to the increased need for a remap, by having both installed at the same time, only one remap is necessary, as apposed to fitting cams, having a remap, then fitting an inlet and then having to have another remap.
Popular inlet manifold options include:
- Mountune (as part of the MR200 kit) - More on Mountune later
- Cosworth (suited to the 2.3 litre Duratec but does fit to the ST's Duratec)
NOTE: Some inlet manifolds (Cosworth and AutoSpecialist) require the power steering (PAS) fluid resevoir to be relocated using a specialist kit, make sure you factor this into your budget when considering an inlet manifold.
Throttle Body (TB)
Again, another natural procession from the Cams / Inlet combo is to fit a large throttle body. The standard Fiesta ST throttle body is 55mm, the popular upgrade choice is to move to a 60mm throttle body. This is available from other select Duratec engines or from specialist parts retailers. The Throttle body aims to allow greater air flow into the engine.
Remapping / Custom Mapping and Rolling Road Sessions
ECU remapping is an engine tuning service which enables some of the restrictions put on a vehicle by the vehicle manufacturer to be lifted or, to recalibrate the vehicles ECU to coordinate the engine's running in a more efficient manner after modification.
There are two types of remap, Generic and Custom. A Generic map is available via handsets such as BlueFin. These apply a preprogrammed map to the vehicles ECU using a predefined map. A custom map is what it says, a map that is custom to your vehicle. Naturally, engines perform in different ways despite being identical. Some engines have been abused, both physically and neglected from services and maintenance, whereas others have been cared for more sensibly, others just differ for no apparent reason. A custom map takes into account your specific vehicle and gets the most out of the engine and running gear. Custom maps are essential for highly tuned vehicles, as generic maps are not written to cope with such specialist changes.
Most owners tend to wait until most major modifications are complete before getting their vehicle mapped, this avoids "wasting money". Although, if you are able to, there is nothing against getting your car mapped after every upgrade. Remaps help maximise Brake Horse Power (bhp), Torque and Miles Per Gallon (MPG) figures by ensuring the engine runs as it should, avoiding issues such as overfuelling etc.
I want more power, but have ran out of things to do?!
So far, you've gone pretty much as far as you can on the Duratec without going down the Force Induction route, or making some seriously big changes. So, you've got three main choices:
- Individual Throttle Bodies (ITB)
To do each of these modding routes properly, you've got to be prepared to part with some serious cash. I'm not going to cover what you need to do, or who to speak to, because quite frankly, I don't know enough about the subject to cover it properly. If you want to go down this route, speak to some of the members that have already done this, and see who they used, what products and which companies. I've just included this section to make new users aware of this possibility.
Coping with the Power
So far, I've only mentioned modifications to the power of the ST. So at the minute, we're running standard everything else! So, you're hurdling down the straight at your local track day, go to stop, and you realise that standard brakes weren't designed for 200+bhp and just aren't going to stop you in time, so you end up chucking your car at scenery, backwards, on fire, screaming, with feaces violently evacuating your bowels because you've stuffed your pride and joy into the gravel / armco / tyre wall. Let's avoid this by making some changes!
What brake upgrade you chose depends on what power modifications you make, there's no hard and fast rule as to whats necessary at certain power levels but, these are the three most common paths to choose:
1)Upgrade your standard brake discs and pads to uprated ones. Grooved and drilled/dimpled discs and uprated pads (such as EBC's range of Green, Red and Yellow Stuff pads) will provide your standard sized brake set up with a bit more punch
2) 300mm Conversion - Using either Mondeo or Focus ST170 carriers and callipers combinations, alongside the relevant discs and pads, you can add some more real estate space to your brake set up
3) Brembo Conversion - Using the Brembo Callipers from either the Focus RS mk1 or Fiat Coupe (other callipers may fit, check on the STOC before purchase) and various brackets to mount the callipers, these can add some serious stopping power to your ST.
NOTE: Brembo Conversions used in conjunction with Standard ST wheels will require spacers to allow the calliper to clear the wheel. Aftermarket wheels will need to checked on an individual basis. Brembo conversions also require specialist brake lines to allow the Focus RS callipers to attach to the Fiesta ST brake system
Braided Brake Lines
According to Wikipedia, The intent of braided brake lines is to improve brake system effectiveness and longevity compared to an equivalent system fitted with flexible rubber hoses through near-elimination of hose expansion. This allows for an increased feeling and response from the brakes, essentially allowing the driver to brake longer and harder. Another plus is that braided steel lines are aesthetically pleasing, and therefore a popular item with car show attendees and Concours entrants.
There are multiple manufacturers for braided lines, with HEL and Goodridge being popular choices.
If you've upgraded to the Fiesta ST from something lesser like I did, I went from a 1.2 Punto to the Fiesta ST, at first you'll be thinking "phawww this handles like a go kart" and after a while and attending a few meets, that'll soon change to "I'm driving a 4x4". The ST may be 15mm lower than your standard MK6 Fiesta, but, in the opinion of many many owners, it needs to go down that little bit more. The two most common options are Lowering Springs and Coilovers.
The cheaper of the two options, and simply replace the standard springs in most cases. Eibach kits tend to be the most popular for appearance, ride comfort and quality, but manufacturers such as Spax, Apex and H&R are other equally highly spoken of kits.
NOTE: Some lowering spring kits do not quote a true drop distance as they do not take into account the initial 15mm drop from the factory. For example, a quoted 35mm drop will only be 20mm in reality.
After lowering, some owners find that the rear wheels sit in the arches too much, and do not follow the natural lines of the Fiesta ST. 12.5mm or 20mm spacers on each wheel solve this problem. Pushing the stance of the wheels out by this distance. Some consider this to be a style modification, whilst others stay it providers great stability whilst cornering and under heavy braking.
Coilovers are more expensive, but are a much more complex beast. These replace the whole standard suspension unit, spring, strut/damper and all. As a result, most do offer a harder ride, but provide less body roll and an improvement in handling. Coilovers are favoured by those who regularly track their cars.
Some coilovers are more complex than others. Some offer simple heigh adjustment, others don't have any adjustment at all, and then there's the top of the range models that offer a multitude of suspension changes including camber and damping.
AP Coilovers seem to be the current STOC favourite for the best budget coilovers worth buying, anything cheaper seems to provide poor reliability. Other popular manufacturers include AP, Biltsein and GAZ.
For the serious trackday attendee, its common knowledge that power isn't everything. It's potentially have 1200bhp if your car weights 12 tonnes. Some go mad in the quest for a lighter car. If it unbolts, it's ripped out. The most common thing to go first is rear seats and anything that is easily removable such as spare wheels and boot contents.
However, if you can live without your creature comforts, and more often in cars that are track toys and not daily drivers, its not uncommon to see door cards, radios, roof linings and dashboards being butchered in order to save a few more KG. Not to mention removing unnecessary electrical components such as rear wiper motors, electric window motors and Air Con pumps and radiators.
For the serious track goer, the next step is to start replacing heavy metal pannels for counterparts made from Fibreglass or Carbon Fibre. Bonnets, doors, wings, boot lids and even roofs all can be replaced. Although you'll need to be very good friends with your bank manager. At time of writing, a carbon fibre bonnet won't see much change from £650!
It is also known to replace glass windows for Lexan or Plexiglass / Perspex Windows, agian, saving weight and lowering the vehicles center of gravity.
Adding Further stiffness
Some drivers still want extra stiffness even after modifying their suspension. Strut Braces and Anti Roll Bars (ARB) are solution.
Strut Braces (Front and Rear)
Strut Braces for the Fiesta ST come in Front and Rear varieties. The front strut brace is mounted to the top of the front suspension struts and minimise body roll and chassis flex to provide a more tight and precise drive. Technically, the most common Rear strut brace is not a strut brace as it does not attach to the suspension struts, and merely adds lateral rigidity to the rear chassis.The front strut brace is universally agreed to have a positive effect, however, the effectiveness of the Rear strut brace is more heavily debated. OMP is the most common manufacturer of the Front strut, and Jamsport the most common supplier of the rear strut brace.
Anti Roll Bars (ARB) or Anti Sway Bars
Manufactured by Whiteline, their blurb states...
"The fitting of bigger Whiteline sway bars is an effective handling improvement you can make. Cornering loads are spread more evenly across the tyres delivering more grip. You also get improved tyre wear as your tyres stay flatter and more upright during cornering. Comfort improves because your car sits flatter through bends meaning less movement inside the vehicle"
ARBs are relatively expensive and only tend to appear on very highly tuned Fiesta ST's or "Track weapons"
Powerflex are regarded as one of the best Polybush providers.
Taken straight from the PowerFlex website:
Suspension bushes are fitted to all cars at all points where the vechile chassis is joined to a moving suspension component. They are fitted to provide a noise and vibrattion absorbing barrier between you and the road. Car Manufacturers fit rubber bushes which act as a sound barrier. Without them cars would feel much harsher and noiser. Rubber is predominently used as it is cheap, and relevantely soft to offer a comfortable and quiet ride. A vehicles original bushes will become softer and more pliable over time, allowing more and more movement of the vehicles suppension components, making the car feel �woolly� . Handling will become less responsive and you might experience accelerated tyre wear and braking instabvility. Standard bushes are manufactured from a rubbercompound containing natural products which perish and deteriorate over time and do not have the best properties for resisting oils and fuels, combined with contant stress rubber suspension bushes eventually deteriorate and break up.
Polyurethance is an ideal material for making into suspension bushes, providing high tensile strength, elasticity and immense durability in the toughest conditions. Polyurethane is also impervoius to petrol and vehicle oil, will not age or perish and has a longer working life; up to 3-4 times that of rubber bushes. By correctly engineering the polyurethane compound, bushes can be made 25-30% stiffer than new rubber items but with exactly the same noise absorbing properties.
The gearbox (IB5) in the Fiesta ST, although adequate for the standard power of the Fiesta ST, does have problems coping with increased power, especially from cars with Forced Induction (Turbos or Superchargers). One of the major upgrades is the MTX75 box which runs reinforced internal components, such as the differential, often replaced with Limited Slip Differentials (LSDs). Quafie are a popular manufacturer of LSD.
Again, to cope with the higher power of highly tuned and turbo'd/supercharged cars, many serious modders tend to reforge their engine using specialist and reinforced parts. If this is a route your are taking, this is something that will require more specific research with regards to your specific build. This is merely been mentioned in this guide as a means of clearing up confusion for new owners.
Mountune and their tuning packages
At this point, you may be thinking, "Great, I want to extract some of this hidden power of my engine, but I have no idea how to do it, and I have the money to do it all at once" Mountune is possibly the answer for you. Mountune is a specialist automotive engineering company formed in 1980 by Dave Mountain. The company was acquired by Rousch (a Ford approved tuner, specialising in the Mustang) in 2004. Mountune is a Ford approval tuning company, meaning any of their modifications (Terms & conditions pending - with exceptions) will not void your Ford warranty. Must be a plus yeah?
For our MK6 Fiesta ST, Mountune offer three tuning packages or stages
MP165 - Mountune CAIS / Full Exhaust & Sports Cat / Remap
MP185 - Contents of MP165 plus Uprated Cams and Valve Springs / Remap
MR200 - Contents of MP185 plus Mountune Inlet / 60mm Throttle Body / Remap
Each upgrade aims to improve the bhp and torque outputs, aiming for, but not promised to, the numbers in the kit:
MP165 - Aims for 165 PS
MP185 - Aims for 185 PS
MR200 - Aims for 200 PS.
NOTE: MP165 & MP185 are Mountune Performance packages and keep your Ford warranty in tact, however, MR200 is a Mountune Racing package and will invalidate your Ford warranty.
Mountune are not the be all and end all when it comes to Ford tuning, but their continued work and development with the Focus ST, Focus RS and Fiesta ZS Mk7 and upcoming 2013 Fiesta ST makes them a favourite with Ford owners.
Some people like to modify their cars so that its the fastest out there, but keep it looking standard on the outside. Some like to the opposite, spend all their effort on the outside and keep the engine as standard, and some balance both.
This section is some of the most COMMON modifications, you don't have to do any of these, and can do whatever you want to be honest, its your car. Change whatever colours you want etc etc. This is just mainly for inspiration and to allow new users to have slight heads up as to what people might mean when someone says "Get your plastics done"
A very common modification to perform early on is to spray the exterior plastics which includes:
- Upper Grill
- Lower Grill
- Lower Grill Surround
- Fog Light Surrounds
- Rear Valance (Lower and Upper)
Gel Badge Overlays
A lot of modders pick a colour scheme for their car, and the standard Blue and Silver Ford badges just don't fit in with this scheme. In steps DMB UK, a graphics company. They specialise in vehicle graphics, especially Fords.
Search for the badges you want (Front and Rear come as a pair, Steering wheel and wheel center caps are a common choice as well), chose the colour scheme you want, and then wait for the delivery.
Other common decals include the inlay for the ST badge on the rear of the car. Browse the DMB website and prepare your debit/credit car for a good hit, cause you'll just keep adding more and more to your basket! Dave of DMB is a fantastic guy and will often price for custom work, all to an exceptional standard. DMB is highly regarded in the FordST scene.
To give the Fiesta ST a more"racing" stance, a common modification to the front of the car is the additional of a splitter or lip. This runs around the bottom of the bumper and adds an element of style. Triple R Composites (aka TRC or RRR) is the most common, this is specifically made to fit the contours of the Fiesta ST bumper and comes with a fixing kit. Other splitter manufacturers include Mike Goodman (although these are not longer manufactured, one may be available second hand) RSParts and the standard Focus RS splitter that needs to be cut to fit correctly.
NOTE: Cars running lowered suspension set ups may have problems with this splitter scraping when navigating kerbs or speedbumps if the car is very low.
RS Style Bonnet Lip
Styled on the bonnet lip from the Focus RS Mk2 and made to specifically fit the Fiesta ST. Another product from Triple R Composites or RS Parts. Attached with 3M sticky tape (don't worry, this stuff is STRONG) and can add a nice touch to the front end of the Fiesta ST. DMB also have a vinyl sticker that mimics the RS Lip at a fraction of the cost.
Aero Flat Windscreen Wipers
These wipers, made by Bosch and other manufacturers, help to add a smoother appearance to the front of the car, removing the horrible metal frame from standard wipers and have one solid rubber blade. Due to the aerodynamic nature of the blade design, they are often superior in performance to standard blades.
With regards to modifying the rear wiper, the standard arm is often replaced with a "smoothed arm" or removed entirely "dewipered"
Whether they actually reduce wind noise when the window is open or they are fitted purely for looks, is debatable. But Wind deflectors are a common modification. These fit inside the window channel and look like a little tinted spoiler running the length of the front windows. Popular manufacturers include Team Heko and Climair
Stickers to let other people know you represent FiestaSTOC or which club you are attached to. Some people get custom ones fitted to match their colour scheme. Often fitted to the rear quarter windows or rear windscreen. These are often mentioned in "Spotted Threads" when a owner's car has been spotted by another owner. Available in the Club Shop.
The finned diffuser replaces the current valance on the rear of the car. The fins mimmic the aerodynamic valances found on race and track cars. Most commonly found in 3 and 4 fin varities. Depending on the manufacturer, these valances either serve as direct replaces for the OEM valance, or must be bonded to the original valance using some form of strong adhesive. Common supplies include Triple R Composites, JGK Motorsport and MAB Custom Motorsport Parts.
Window Tints and Sunstrips
Fitted to the rear windows and rear windscreen, tint levels vary from "light smoke" to "limo tint". Darkness is down to personal preference. It is advisable to get these professional fitted as they are difficult to apply well and look awful when incorrectly applied.
Sunstrips run the length of the windscreen at the top and aim to block out the sun. Some drivers prefer tinted strips were others prefer solid block colours. Please note the legislation when applying these, contact a professional if unsure.
NOTE: The law regarding the tinting of front windows and windscreens essentially prevents them from being allowed. If you chose to have these tinted, it is at your own risk. May professionals may advise against it, and may, in some circumstances, refuse to fit them.
These are fitted to prevent mud splashes, but also improve the look or "stance" of a vehicle. Two types of flaps are available, PVC or Kaylan, with the later being the stiffer, but more expensive of the two. These come in a range of colours from multiple manufacturers.
There are a few out there, but the two most famous are the JWRC and ACR Composites (Often referred to as Reeday's Kit after the user who made it). These are body "wide arch" kits. However, they do require some substantial work to be fitted and will probably require a full respray.
NOTE: Vehicles with these kits fitted can be difficult to sell on.
A lot of people change out the standard ST seats for bucket seats and swap the seat belts for harnesses. There are far to many options to cover, only you can choose what seats and harnesses you want.
What is worth mentioning is probably the nicest seats ever made, the Recaro CS Sportsters. Although very expensive, they are commonly regarded as the best seats for the ST.
Interior Colour Coding
Some owners take the modding to the inside of their car, colour coding interior panels or even going for full retrims. Popular, but "easy" interior items include the stereo surrounds, ST plaque on the steering wheel, gearknob plaque, air vent surrounds and gear gaiter surround.
Thread of Interest: http://www.fiestasto...on/#entry595050
Detango (Facelift Headlights)
A lot of people don't like that horrible orange filter on the front of their headlights, so remove the filter and replace the bulbs with Silver bulbs that glow orange. Whilst doing this, headlights are often split open and given a lick of paint to make them blend in with the rest of the car. Colours are down to you but a full guide can be seen here.
LED Bulb sizes for inside are as follows:
Interior Light - Middle - 36mm Festoon
Interior Light - Side/Map - w5w / 501
Number plate bulbs - 36mm Festoon
Boot Light - w5w / 501
Two main options here, HIDs or Uprated Bulbs.
High Intensity Discharge (HID) Bulbs
HIDs, by rights, shouldn't pass an MOT unless fitted in projector lamps, be fitted with self leveling systems and lens washers, but often do without these requirements. These use the same wiring for the standard bulbs, but via a ballast, to provide a whiter light. HIDs are measured in temperature (K). I believe 6000k is white.
HIDs are often unpopular with other drivers, especially when fitted in reflector headlights (like the Fiesta ST has) the light beam isn't focused properly and causes dazzling
NOTE: Fitting of HIDs without satisfying the necessary MOT criteria is at your own risk.
As popular alternative to HIDs is bulbs that mimic the light output of HIDs. "White" bulbs will never be as white as HIDs, but are legal. Osram and Phillips are popular favourites. Please be aware that some uprated bulbs are not E-Marked, and therefore not fit for road use.
Engine Bay Modifications, Dress Up Kits or Engine Bling
People that attend shows tend to modify all aspects of their car, even the engine bay. There are a large amount of dress up kits for the engine bay of the Fiesta ST, AutoSpecialists have a large selection. Engine Bay bling includes, but is not limited to:
- Covers for various fluid reservoirs
- Spark Plug or Engine Covers
- Battery Cover
- Engine Tubing or Conduit
- Under Bonnet Vanity Plates
- Colour coded or Chrome reservoir caps
You can do whatever you want to your engine bay, don't be limited to what companies sell, contemplate making your own custom pieces.
Everything I have written here serves as a beginners guide to modding and owning the Fiesta ST. It is by no means a definitive guide and everything written here is for guidance only. I am not responsible for anything that may go wrong as a result of something you have read here. If you are not confident of tackling anything on your own, please consult a professional.
With regards to modifications, especially aesthetic mods, the sky is your limit, you are not limited to the list written here. You are your own limit, you will have to be brave and try your own things to stand out from the crowd. Do your own thing, use other cars as inspiration and talk to people abut how they did things. People are here to share knowledge, but most of all, enjoy owning your ST!
If you are going to copy this guide to anywhere to another forum other than FiestaSTOC.com, please have the courtesy to reference both Myself (Yarde) and FiestaSTOC with its creation, this took a lot time on my part to write. Thanks, Yarde.
Other threads of Interest
Please note, to access the following threads / sub forums, you may require a FiestaSTOC membership, which is available via the Club shop
Buyers Guide and What to look for by Alec M
If you haven't bought your Fiesta ST yet, this is a good thread to have a read through, giving a run down of common things to look for in your second hand MK6 Fiesta ST.
Early Mod List by Iceman
Alot of new members are very keen and enthusiastic to start modding their ST's but tend not to know exactly where to begin, what items to go for and the best way/place to source them from. To save them using the search or posting recurring questions, Iceman thought us more experienced/long attending members could construct a helping hand guide and list, of a few starter mods and general upgrade suggestions, that are most commonly asked for/saught after in the early stages of an ST project.
The Fiesta ST MK6 Exhaust Thread by Alec M
A more detailed look at the standard exhaust system of the Fiesta ST. This thread is a great reference for people to look at the standard system, and where changes can be made
AGAIN, A NOTE TO NEW MEMBERS Please do not ask questions about any of the below in this topic, make a new topic. Otherwise,tThis will result in this thread being moved to a different section of the forum available to "Paid Members" only, and therefore, won't be seen by its intended audience. Thanks on behalf of Yarde and the FiestaSTOC staff
13/01/2013 - Document Created
13/01/2013 - Added Admin Notice at top and bottom
15/01/2013 - Exhaust / Decat Section - Spelling mistakes corrected /// Mountune Section - Power figures changed from BHP to PS
17/01/2013 - Threads of Interest Section - Added
07/03/2013 - Air Filter (K&N) Section - Additional Information Added - Aftermarket Elbow solutions
23/03/2013 - Exhaust Section Updated - Additional Information Added // New Sections Stiffness (Polybushing), Weight Reduction, (Asthetic Mods) Finned Diffuser
13/09/2013 - FiestaST MK6 Exhaust Thread link added
Edited by Yarde, 13 September 2013 - 13:48.