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2,493 Posts
Hi All,

Should have started this project thread 5 years ago when I bought the car, oh well better late than never.

I don't have major plans for the car, I'm really happy how the car is right now, so it'll be general maintenance, the odd modification and photo's from road trips and the occasional show.

I'll be updating this also with links or past photo's which I'll have probably posted elsewhere, this will add content and also show what's been done to the car.



Premium Member
2,493 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
  • Sill end rust repair - here
  • Change to Molten Orange seats - here
  • Bonnets Vents by Nick Wiley: here
  • Gear Box Oil Change: here
  • 4yr/40k Miles Service: here
  • Complete Brake Change: here
  • Winter To Summer Wheel Swap: here
  • Skirt Repair: here
  • Mountune Rear Spring Isolator Upgrade: here
  • Windscreen Replaced: here
  • Biannual Service & Spark Plug Change: here
  • Rear Spring Isolators Replaced Again: here
  • Focus RS/ST170 Rear Caliper Refurb: here
  • Busy Weekend: here
  • Door Trims Wrap: here
  • Pro Alloy Curved Intercooler Fitting: here
  • MOT Emissions (2018, 2019, 2020, 2021): here
  • Mountune RMM fails & visit to Collins Performance: here
  • Vibra-Technics RH Engine Mount Fitting: here
  • OZ Ultraleggeras & Michelin PS3's: here
  • My lads PRO ALLOY Curved Intercooler fitting: here
  • Ford o/s Engine Mount: here
  • Team Dynamics 1.2 15x7J: here
  • Poweflex Transmission Inserts & RS Exhaust Rubbers: here
  • Sill end rust repair part 2: here
  • Ford Fair 2021: here
  • Cadwell Park visit: here
  • Turbocharger Upgrade PERON S284 (Turbo Technics S280): here
  • Finally fitted the OZ Ultraleggeras: here
  • SPTA Micro Cordless Polisher: here
  • 6 Months with PERON S284 Turbo Conversion, Soft99 Fusso Coat Wax: here
  • 55k Service, Osram Night Breaker Bulbs: here
  • CP RMM failure, Front Suspension Refresh, PowerFlex Engine Mount Insert: here
  • 2nd Gearbox Oil Change: here
  • PERON S284 12 Month Health Check, Air Filter Clean & VUDU Catch Can Fitment: here
  • Front Grill Mod & Front Bumper Fitment Issue: here
  • 13th Service & Mountune Radiator: here
  • Mountune Radiator, 82C thermostat, Hoses & A/C delete at H-Sport Performance: here
  • DEPSTECH DS450 Bore Scope images of Cylinders and Valves: here

Parts & Torque Settings:

Engine Oil:
Millers XF Premium LSPI 5w30
Castrol Magnatec Professional A5 5w30 (Ford Spec: WSS-M2C913-D & C)

Gearbox Oil: Castrol Syntrans FE 75W (renamed to Transmax Manual FE 75W)

Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Prediluted / VC-3DIL-B (WSS-M97B44-D or WSS-M97B44-D2)
Genuine Ford Super Plus Premium Longlife Antifreeze. 1L: 2361569, 5L: 2361571

Spark Plugs: 1685720 (Spark Plug Socket)
Oil Filter: 1883037
Pollen Filter: 1566997

Brakes (Genuine FORD not Motorcraft)
Front Disks: 1751584
Front Pads: 1860476
Rear Disks: 1780880
Rear Pads: 1810990 (Performance) 5382847 (Comfort)
Front Slider Pins (1pk): Frentech-uk S7035-2 (S7035BZ-2)
Rear Slider Pins (2pk): Frentech-uk S7001CE (1pk S7001F-2)
Rear Disks for ST170 Conversion: 4411312
Rear Dust Shields for ST170 Conversion: LH 1141939, RH 1141940

Brake Bleeding


Caliper nipple spanner Halfords Professional Flare 9mm x 11mm
Rear Caliper tubing 5mm, Front Caliper tubing 6mm (internal Diameter)


Sump Plug Crush Washers: M14 x 20 x 1.5
Wheel Stud: 47mm M12x1.5
TPMS Metal Valve: 1936088
TPMS Rubber Valve: 2036832
Cat to Turbo Bolts x3: Finis# 5120109 (M8 x 29mm)
Cat to RMM Bracket x2 Nuts M8 x 1.25
Radiator Expansion Tank Cap: 1301104
82C Ford Thermostat: 2184696
Dash Air Vent (for boost gauge): 1781737
Right Hand Engine Mount (Ford): 5265556
Yuasa 71Ah 650A (278mm x 175 x 175)
RS MK2 Exhaust Hanger Rubber: 1688752
Halfords Number Plate Sticky Pads: HFX221

Pro-Kit Springs: E10-35-020-02-22
Spacers System 4: 15mm: S90-4-15-007
Spacers System 4: 20mm: S90-4-20-010
Fords Anti-Squeak Isolators: 1531725

Torque Settings:

Oil drain plug 28Nm
Gearbox plugs 40Nm
Spark Plugs 15Nm (Gap 0.028" or 0.7mm, Stage 3: 0.024" or 0.6mm)
Brake Caliper Slider Bolts 26Nm
Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts 70Nm
Brake Fluid Pipe Unions 18Nm
Brake Hose Banjo Union 26Nm
Engine Mount (Top Right) 3 x Nuts (engine side) 80Nm
Engine Mount (Top Right) 3 x bolts (chassis side) 48Nm
Rear Axle Bolts up to chassis (x3) 125Nm
Rear Axle Bush Through Bolt & Nut - 80Nm then tighten further 120degrees

Premium Member
2,493 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A few weeks ago @Dave28 mentioned on here he had a bit of rust on the end of the sills under each rear arch, I checked mine and yep mine had the same issue but worse.

No doubt there's trendier/better car oriented materials than Hammerite but it's what I decided to go with plus I may have gone a tad overboard with coverage but at least the arch liner covers the majority.

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Premium Member
2,493 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
PRO ALLOY curved intercooler.

After false promises, wrong spec cooler sent, re-ordered, wrong spec cooler sent again (after a 3 hr round trip to pick it up! :mad: ), finally after exactly one month the correct spec intercooler arrives with a few free extras as a sweetener.

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Hopefully get around to fitting it in next week or two.

Premium Member
2,493 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Good to see all this in one place now.

Any pictures of the RS mounts fitted to the Milltek? I just want to see how you cut them.
Cheers Kev,

It's a coincidence you mention about the RS Mounts, I had rear of car up on stands yesterday to replace the crappy plastic rear arch liner retainer nuts and did plan on fitting the RS Mounts but passed again, so still got a load of cable ties (around the top and bottom and around the sides) on the two Powerflex mounts either end of the silencer :facepalm:

The RS Mounts are 39mm wide, stock are 29mm, I've not measured the EXH005's but Powerflex's website says 23mm, seems a bit narrow that? next time I'm under car I'll measure the hanging points on both the car and cat-back and find out exactly how much wants shaving/drilling out of the RS Mounts.

I'm just a bit weary forcing on an RS Mount and snapping off a mounting point on the Milltek.

Premium Member
2,493 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Nice, you'll be happy with it. It fits really easily and so long as bumper is off, it's a really easy install.
Looking forward to fitting it, not looking forward though to tackling that centre bumper to wing bolt.

While fitting the cooler it'll be a good time to fit the Mountune charge pipe upgrade kit I bought in Jan 2016 :laughing:

Been thinking about changing out the recirc valve to a GFB DV+, I'll have to check with Collins to see if it's compatible with CP2-E, do you have a DV+ Alex?

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2,493 Posts
Yes, I have the GFB DV+ for some years now. Works nicely and gets rid of the low RPM venting noise associated with the stock part.

I don't seem to recollect any night/day difference in performance, but I suppose it helps a little.
Thanks Alex, did you use engine oil to lubricate the GFB piston?

The main benefit that the GFB will bring will be the ability to retain more boost between gear changes. And it's just a stronger part, as long as it's lubricated properly.
Cheers Rob, the retaining boost between gears is the reason I might go with one, I'm not sure if it's a stronger part though, I've been reading about the ST180's for over 5 years and I can't remember ever reading a stock recirc valve breaking but I have read a few issues with the GFB DV+, iirc main issues were the piston drying out or the little o-ring failing, I think GFB changed the o-ring to remedy that issue.

I remember @MickyD having a DV+ on his MK7ST, Micky what's your opinon on the GFB DV+ and what did you lubricate yours with?

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2,493 Posts
Another vote for the DV+. Great mod for any remapped car. I'll leave it at that as I agree with everything Micky says.
Cheers Kev.

Yes,I lubbed mine with engine oil. It's been fitted since 2018 and it works fine to this day, never relubbed it.

My understanding is that it's meant to self lubricate from the oil vapour in the system. I would have thought something like a catch can would remove much of the oil vapour in turn causing it to dry out. That's if I understand it correctly.

I would also say, if you get 20k-30k miles out of it, even if it does dry, they're so cheap to replace anyway... Could just buy a new one ha!
All good info, thanks Alex.

@Darran Personally I have heard so many people giving it the old "it does nothing", "its a waste of money", "it doesn't give you any more power" etc etc etc. but in my humble opinion it gave big improvements on re-application of throttle power. after installation the biggest change came on those sweeping bends or hesitant overtaking moves, the times where you have throttled up then release the throttle momentarily before re-applying. Prior to fit it seemed to feel like you had to re-build the boost pressure back up to get the power back on but after fitment the car just seemed to be alive for a few more seconds after throttle release and It felt like the car was already on full boost immediately the throttle was applied.

I totally agree it is NOT a mod that will suddenly give you more BHP but (IMO) it does decrease the rate at which the boost is lost therefore allowing you to keep up a faster better flow through the country lanes and during multi car overtakes (I am certain some will simply dismiss this as a placebo effect caused by my action of fitting a new device and wanting to see an improvement, but I can only say what I felt from the drivers seat)

As for lubing.. Mine went a 30,000 miles untouched (I do 12k+ per year) and was absolutely fine with no damage (at time of removal though I did get a nick in mine dropping the piston on the driveway :blush: so be careful if you do disassemble it to re-lube!! :lol: ). I re-lubed it (as I did at install) with clean engine oil as I thought harder greases/oils such as my trusty PX7 might impair its movement in the colder months. In all honesty though there was absolutely no reason to have done anything with it as it was moving perfectly upon removal as I only wanton to the system to confirm the servicability of the O-ring seal that some of the older ones had issues with... otherwise I would have probably done another 30K miles before I even thought to look at it.

The only issue I have heard mentioned regarding needing re-lubing that know of is if you have a catch-can fitted as this removes the natural oil vapour in the line therefore possibly??? resulting in the valve sticking.....

Hope that helps, i've tried to be as succinct as possibly but it's such a difficult thing to properly describe, below is a link to another thread with pic of mine after 30K untouched... (oh and my car always was MP215 and MR230 (2019) as some have mentioned it does not give any discernible changes to standard mapped cars)
Thank you Micky for detailed reply, exactly what I wanted to hear lol, especially the bit about throttle response, on rare occasions I can feel the stock DV has vented all the pressure and there's a very slight delay when going back on throttle, must admit I've only felt it a few times but in those occasions I'm sure a GFB DV+ would have helped.

This morning I was just about to order one when I phoned Collins Performance about upgrading from CP2 to CP2-E but the guy I spoke to said their maps are not compatible with the GFB DV+, I mentioned I knew quite a few people running CP2 with GFB DV+ and were very happy, I went on to mention I knew a while ago GFB had issues with the o-ring and some units drying out but the guy from Collins said again GFB DV+ isn't compatible with their maps and it will fail in time, something to do with the spring.

So I'm not sure what to do now, keep with CP2 and get a GFB DV+ and upgrade my MT intake to ITG, I'm sure I'd gain a bit of performance on the bum dyno or what I was going to spend on CP2-E and CP actuator I could change tuner and go 2R, or stop scratching an itch go VT330R or S280 lol.

I'll ponder some more and in meantime get the intercooler and boost pipe kit fitted.

Guys, thanks for the input, much appreciated :nice:

Premium Member
2,493 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Never heard of that before. I've definitely seen plenty of people online running the two together.
I remember reading somewhere Collins didn't recommend the DV+ but I can't remember where but yep I've seen/read many CP tuned ST180's with a DV+

It confuses me that unless they are saying go with another component such as their own recommended make to which they get dibs on or a different type i.e. blowoff valve.... How can they say an uprated product that uses the same signals and reacts at the same times as the OEM..... is not compatible???? Are they also therefore saying the factory item is not compatible?? or do they rely on their maps that the factory fitted valve will slip and release pressure under load and somehow build that in to the map????

If they offered a reason "it is not compatible because x,y,z" I could understand.... otherwise it almost sounds like either:

a. they asked for a discount to include it in the standard CPxx and GFB refused


b. They actually don't know if it will affect the map therefore prefer to err on the safe side and simply tell people don't fit it so they don't have to do the research themselves.....
It wasn't a sales pitch, they didn't recommend another valve, chat went something like: "nope, don't go with a GFB DV+, they're not compatible with our maps, it'll fail, we had a CP4 car in last week with a failed DV+", he didn't recommend any other recirc valve so I guess they use the oem part.

To be honest I'm not overly impressed with CP, their CP2 map is very good but whenever I've spoken to them it's seems it's their way or no way. On another subject I mentioned that I had their over-run option on my CP2 map, I mentioned since I've had a sport-cat fitted the pops are a little too much for what I want, I really like the low end burbles and crackles and would it be possible to buy another add-on with the high end pops toned down a bit, "nope sorry not possible, it's not as straight forward as that", by this point I'd had enough and said ok and good bye. Other tuners offer crackle maps, flamer maps, AK47 maps, WRC style add-ons etc but by all accounts according to CP it's not possible.

Anyway I'm waffling, thanks Micky for your comments.

That's very odd... First time I've ever heard that.

I do know that Collins stopped selling the GFB valves after the initial bad batches with the O Ring and never resumed selling them... But first time I ever heard about a tune not being compatible.

Also, I'm no expert, but I struggle to understand how a diverter valve wouldn't be compatible with map...
If it's any help, I am looking to get my custom mapped on a dyno.

I looked at CP2E myself, but from asking around, it seems a better use of money to get something tailored to the car... Especially since they can see the data.

I will go to Sabre Tuning in Castle Combe personally.
Thanks Alex, if I go hybrid/big turbo I'd like to go custom tune.

Premium Member
2,493 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Got around to fitting the PRO ALLOY Curved intercooler.

After reading both the Forge and Mountune front bumper removal guides the bumper was off within minutes

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Replaced the stock intercooler hoses and baffled hard pipe with items from Mountunes Charge Pipe Upgrade kit

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Automotive tire Automotive exhaust Bumper Gas Pipe

The curved coolers locator pins fitted the bumper bar perfectly

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Constant Tension Worm Drive Hose Clamps from HCL

Light Crankset Eyewear Automotive lighting Bicycle handlebar

Motor vehicle Grille Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting

Once the cooler was plumbed in and when I attempted to refit the bumper I came across a small problem, the bumper wouldn't go back on, I had an idea what it was.

After plumbing in the cooler, when it came to refitting the plastic trim which goes along the bottom on the cooler I noticed I had to bend slightly the thin plastic trim bit to get the bolt in

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this trim was fouling the bumper, so I had to remove the trim, loosen the hose clamps and reposition the Alloy elbows and the silicon joiners each side until the trim pieces aligned correctly

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after doing the above the bumper went back on fine.

Now that the sports-cat and intercooler are fitted I need to decide whether I'm going CP2-E or changing tuners and go 2R, or go hybrid/big turbo.

Anyone fancy taking me out in their VT330R or S280 car? :2): , don't mind travelling an hour or two from the East Mids, just don't want to spend 3k + and regret it afterwards.


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2,493 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Looking good @Darran ... but how many clamps do you have holding on that inlet to the intercooler!!!! :laughing:

Have you watched the GFB video BTW it does go into the way it's made and how it works in great detail also sort of explaining why peeps like I say it is better throttle response....
Definitely erred on the side of caution with the clamps :facepalm: , I removed a couple when the bottom trim was fouling the bumper but where possible I doubled up on the clamps, probably not needed with the stock turbo, but boost pipes blowing off with bigger turbo is quite common so thought I'd help stop that if I do progress further.

Yes I've seen the GFB YouTube video, all understood re. the benefits.

I needed one of those flexi bendy socket things. What are they actually called?

Looks like that would have made my life so much easier. Other than those wing bolts, bumper is easy to remove.

Looks good though, glad you're happy with the intercooler. I was very impressed with the quality/finish and that it fitted to all standard mounting points.
Yeah that little flexi 1/4" extension made the wings bolts easy, the one I've got is included in the Ford 46pc tool set I regular use, it's the smaller one which MickyD has linked, it's 1/4 drive about 6" long.

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2,493 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
How are your vents after 2 years of being fitted? Ive made a booking with Nick but like you, Im really dubious about it - not so much from a water ingress point of view, more along the lines of it looking dreadful in 12 months time (peeling lacquer, fading, that sort of thing)
They're still spot on :nice:

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2,493 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Nothing much been happening with the car.

Car was booked in at Collins HQ for CP2-E and their actuator but cancelled due to lockdown 2.0.

Contacted Nick at AET about going VT330R, took ages to get a reply and when he did he gave me an email address to use, after two emails and three weeks still no reply, if their communication is this bad when wanting to give them best part of £3.5k I can only imagine how bad it would be if I had it fitted and had a problem. Been in contact with another company re. bigger turbo and live mapping, they've promised to contact me when hardware is in stock and they're in a position to fit, would be well after Xmas, I'm not holding my breath though.

Car suddenly got a vibration sound, turned out to be exhaust heat shield:

Car was in for MOT so bodged it with a Coke can, will replace heat shield fixings next summer:

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Car passed MOT with no advisories, since last pass cars been fitted with Milltek Sports Cat and CP2 overrun addon, so relieved it passed emissions.

Finally got around to giving car a well needed half decent maintenance wash and interior tidy up:

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Probably one more contact wash this year when I change back to stock wheels then it'll be just contactless washes until weather starts to improve next year.

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2,493 Posts
Discussion Starter · #38 ·
The Pro Alloy intercooler looks so good looking through the grill ha.

If you're not too far away, speak to these guys about options. I will go to them for a custom map instead of CP2E

They're very well known in the Ford scene, especially with MK1 Focus RS. Great reputation
Cheers Alex, heard nothing but positive comments re. Sabre but unfortunately they're miles away from me, are you still thinking of going with Sabre?

That's some top notch bodging!

I didn't think I'd like it but the contrast the seats give looks great!
Thanks Kev, I still think the MO seats are very marmite with the blue but I like them, definitely look better when the car is clean which is very rare at this time of year.

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Had a bit of a minor niggle with the car recently, started to feel very slight vibrations through steering wheel and pedals, first started to notice it not long after fitting the Pro Alloy cooler, so initially thought it could have been related to that, no extra vibrations were felt on idle, it was more after changing gear at approx. 3k as the engine reduced rpm but it was very minor though. More recent though under just moderate acceleration I did get wheel hop so something was definitely not right.

Quick look at the Mountune RMM showed it didn't look good:

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This had been on the car coming up to 5 years and they have been known to fail, my lad had recently upgraded his RMM with a Collins mount, he didn't notice any extra nvh so decided to go with one of those.

From new my car had an annoying faint squeak which only appeared on dry days, fast forward 3 years and it turned out to be the RH top engine mount, squeak cured after a spray of silicon lub.

Last week I found myself close to CP HQ and after a quick call they fitted me in just before closing to check the engine mount:

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As I expected the RH engine mount is on it's way out, they didn't have a replacement but while there Ben removed the MT RMM and it was slightly out of shape so had their RMM fitted, vibration cured.

Will replace the dodgy engine mount with a vibra-technics FOR630M, hoping to fit that in next couple of weeks.

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2,493 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
Bought a brand new Vibra-Technics FOR630M RH Engine Mount off eBay which arrived bent/damaged:

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Emailed Vibra-Technic and credit where it's due, Phil at VT got a replacement out to me within 48hrs.

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I saw on a couple of YouTube videos where people have drained the coolant and removed the coolant expansion tank to gain access to the engine mount, after removing the headlight and unclipped the brittle top pipe which is above the coolant level it is possible to pull free the expansion tank from it's mounting lugs and position it out of the way.

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With the engine supported from underneath with a piece of 4x2 and a trolley jack the engine mount with top bracket was removed by 3 x 15mm bolts and 3 x 18mm nuts.

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The top centre bolt on the stock mount was on very tight, my rattle gun wasn't up to the job but easy work for the old and trusty breaker bar.

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Alignment of the new mount was spot on and within a few minutes bolts and nuts were torqued up, expansion tank back in its place, top pipe reconnected, headlight back in and job done.

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Didn't have chance to test the mount today but will hopefully use the ST for the supermarket run at the weekend.

Torque settings:

3 x 15mm Bolts to chassis 48Nm

3 x 18mm Nuts to engine 80Nm

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2,493 Posts
What intake are you running Darren?

In light of my recent thread, I've been looking at the crossover pipe and turbo elbow. I wondered what people were doing for gaskets where the turbo intake meets the face of the turbo elbow?

Do you have a crossover pipe system installed?
I'm still using Mountunes Intake with their Induction Hose but stock crossover and elbow.

Looking online at the stock elbow it does show some sort of o-ring:

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but can't remember seeing anything like that on the Pro Alloy/Mountune elbow, I've no idea if they come with a gasket.

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2,493 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Replaced front lower suspension wishbones, drop links and track rod ends on my old vaux ashtray daily.

Spot the mistake on the pic below :mad:

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See it?

Bought the kit off eBay ages ago but only noticed last minute that they had sent 2 x RH track rod ends, anyway ecp to the rescue.

My lads a dab hand at removing crusty/rusted old nuts and bolts, really was a pleasure to watch how it's done properly, makes a change finishing a job like that with all skin on knuckles still attached.

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