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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
Soooooo, Its really ready to get mapped now, the hold up being i'm now paying house bills by myself and covid.

Got the oil pressure sensor remote mounted using a AN line.

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Had a little bit of a tidy up.

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I also got the dash guard I designed printed in ABS and made a dash background.

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
Designed a steering wheel clip today and tweaked the horn button mount as well and printed both.

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
So its been a while. Been fighting with it to get it running right. Did some fresh engine wiring that solved that and got it mapped a few weeks ago. It passed its MOT yesterday and its now fully insured with greenlight.

So new crank and cam wiring with shielded cable and heat sleeving, moved the fuel filter to the bay with a take off ready for a fuel pressure sensor later on, completely replaced the fuel lines with fresh ones and added heat sleeve to that as well.

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Re routed the main cable that runs from the alternator around the back of the engine and heat sleeved it to reduce clutter in the front and having the cable coming over the top of the engine like it does stock. Also heat sleeved the crank and alt wiring.

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My dad make some bonnet spacers today as the under bonnet temps are very hot, going to tax it from the 1st and go and test them out.

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
So I took it to ford fair as a day out and a bit of a test for it, 2 hours each way, traffic etc and it did really well. only 2 real problems were the DBW not reacting when I put my foot down when it gets hot and a bad rattle in the back. That turned out to be the rear ASTs, the previous owner had fitted the helper springs on the bottom and not on the top like they are meant to be so that's sorted now.

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Booked a pass and a single 15 min track session at Forge action day at 9am to give it a test on track. Not sure yet what I'm going to do about the DBW problem yet, need to do some data logging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
Took her for a session at combe last year, first time out in over 2 years in a overhauled car, some very rusty driving from me including a rookie error of lifting off in a corner. The power cuts were caused by the PMU G sensor being set to low so that was an easy fix but I decided to end my session to not cause a risk to everyone else.


Found a snippit from the outside as well.

 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
So have not updated this in a long while. I'm working in the NHS now and I have been doing 7 days a week for the last few months.

So this year I joined the splitter gang, took it summer action day and did one session and once again had a big DBW delay.

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So I finally gave up with the DBW and went to a cable, this meant getting it mapped again and this is when it all went wrong. So the mapping was all done, 200bhp was made, it was sat at idle and it shut off, fired it back up to be met with the knock knock knock of the bottom end.

Que it being stripped to find the N.4 big end shell spin and wrecked and the oil gallery plugged solid with what seams to be block casting. So now the plan is to build a forged engine, Using a spare block, K1 rods and Supertech 88mm 11:6:1 pistons. Filed away a bunch of the crap let over from the casting and dropped it down to Anderson race engines for reboring with the crank to get it key-wayed. I don't like having any money anyway hahaha

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Did you have engine protection for oil pressure? I know these suffer oil starvation hugely in the corners. To the point where I've had to overfill a touch to avoid going below 1.5bar on hairpins.

If you did, and have ARP mains, decent bearings and a working pump. Then that's mega concerning for me haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
Did you have engine protection for oil pressure? I know these suffer oil starvation hugely in the corners. To the point where I've had to overfill a touch to avoid going below 1.5bar on hairpins.

If you did, and have ARP mains, decent bearings and a working pump. Then that's mega concerning for me haha.
I don't have that turned on yet, lowest on the log I think was 2 bar. I'm using a raceline baffled sump that takes 5L of oil.

It didn't have ARP mains and i'm still deciding to use ARPs or not having talked to Anderson, it actully makes things worse unless you line bore the block
 

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It'll make things worse with or without ARP fixings in your situation. Since your bearings gone your cylinder has potentially experienced slap/whip. So a rebore would potentially be needed. You mentioned about going with an oversized setup like myself, so that wouldn't be an issue.

2 bar sounds great considering that's the point of failure. If it wasn't oil starvation causing heat then it'll likely have been the oem mains.
would suggest bearings themselves. But you don't strike me as the kind of person to run their engine low on oil or use sub par parts haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
Its already getting a rebore to 88mm to fit the supertechs so it should be fine.

Well I didn't built the engine, it came with the shell built by someone else, it has King bearings and ARP rod bolts. The thing is the mains and rod 1,2,3 shells all looked great, it was just n.4 when the oil gallery got plugged up.

Also another disaster, found that the c-clip snapped on the N/S driveshaft during removal and looks like its dropped into the Kazz diff....so now I need to strip the box and diff to....I hate cars.
 
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