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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Here is how it sits, if I was being picky I’d like the rear to be slightly higher. Ground clearance and arch gap to change when 205/45/16 tyres go on. Sat a bit too low for me
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RE the exhaust situation. If you want as close to a mountune system as possible... Go with a mongoose. Same manifold style with a sport cat/decat to suit, and it also mounts up to the mountune catback. Mountune and mongoose both being 2.25". With all the bends in all the right places.

I currently have a mongoose decat on mine mounted between a miltek manifold and mountune catback.
As there are 2 variations of sports cat/decat from mongoose. One with the flexi piece and one without.
 
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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
RE the exhaust situation. If you want as close to a mountune system as possible... Go with a mongoose. Same manifold style with a sport cat/decat to suit, and it also mounts up to the mountune catback. Mountune and mongoose both being 2.25". With all the bends in all the right places.

I currently have a mongoose decat on mine mounted between a miltek manifold and mountune catback.
As there are 2 variations of sports cat/decat from mongoose. One with the flexi piece and one without.
Ah yes I thought it might looking at the pics. I’ve actually found a 2nd hand miltek system (manifold and cat) that works out a lot cheaper, so I’ve decided to go down that route and get a custom link piece to link with Mountune cat back, saved £500-600 doing it this way.

But good reference for future if I fancy a change (I suspect I may change in a few years)
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
So I didn’t like the way the car sat, on the Eibach at the rear, about 10mm too low, and lower than the front. I thought I could fit the height adjustment from the GAZ kit to the Eibach springs but the lower section of the spring is too small in diameter, so I’ve switched to the GAZ springs. Which by my calculations are a fair bit stiffer, but still one of the softest coilover springs. Ride height is now perfect but I’ve got to test the ride quality, hoping it should be pretty ok.

I noted the Eibach rear springs arent really progressive, as the wire thickness and coil swept diameter doesn’t change, so really they are inbuilt helper springs, to prevent the spring being loose during MOT / unloading the rear.

The car when jacked up does make the spring slightly loose but it still contacts the seating, so I’ll maybe get some helper springs just to be on safe side and to pass the MOT
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
You sure it’s not the spring isolators ? Mine were shot when I swapped mine out, changed them for poly versions.
Causing the low ride height on the Eibachs? They looked ok, poly would increase the ride height (stiffer), so I could go that route? But I don’t want excessive feedback into the chassis
 

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I haven’t noticed any negatives, spring isolators and beam bushes are both poly. I am running 16” with rainsports and there a fairly soft tyre. ive always thought the ride difference between standard and the b12 setup was like night and day, massive improvement over standard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Ok I might try them, yer the B12 was better than stock but the adjustable dampers are leagues better than B12 again for me, as I can adjust it to be softer, when no rear weight in car
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
First proper drive and with my girlfriend and I quote “this is the most comfortable yet” that’s with stiffer springs, the car rolls less but the damping is on 2 clicks from fully soft, from about 15 if I recall.

If anything now I want to try adjustable fronts

it helps that even this stiffer spring at the rear is the softest option. 200lb/in (3.57kg/mm) which I think is softer than the BC Coilover 4kg/mm
 

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So I didn’t like the way the car sat, on the Eibach at the rear, about 10mm too low, and lower than the front. I thought I could fit the height adjustment from the GAZ kit to the Eibach springs but the lower section of the spring is too small in diameter, so I’ve switched to the GAZ springs. Which by my calculations are a fair bit stiffer, but still one of the softest coilover springs. Ride height is now perfect but I’ve got to test the ride quality, hoping it should be pretty ok.

I noted the Eibach rear springs arent really progressive, as the wire thickness and coil swept diameter doesn’t change, so really they are inbuilt helper springs, to prevent the spring being loose during MOT / unloading the rear.

The car when jacked up does make the spring slightly loose but it still contacts the seating, so I’ll maybe get some helper springs just to be on safe side and to pass the MOT
If you fail an mot for having eibach lowering springs, then really that's a sign to never take any car to that particular garage in future, as they'd have to be pretty retarded to do so.

I wouldn't try and reinvent the wheel.
 
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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
If you fail an mot for having eibach lowering springs, then really that's a sign to never take any car to that particular garage in future, as they'd have to be pretty retarded to do so.

I wouldn't try and reinvent the wheel.
You won’t fail on a Eibach as the spring remains seated when unloaded. The coil over springs can become loose when fully unloaded hence the helper spring required to pass MOT.
 

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You won’t fail on a Eibach as the spring remains seated when unloaded. The coil over springs can become loose when fully unloaded hence the helper spring required to pass MOT.
I've never had a car that was jacked off of anywhere but the rear beam during an mot.
As that's the only structural jacking point for a pit jack that spans the entire pit width.

I passed 6 mots on H&R's which would fall out when shock is at full extension.

It might be worth asking why your tester is carrying out inspections beyond the standard test.
 
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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
I've never had a car that was jacked off of anywhere but the rear beam during an mot.
As that's the only structural jacking point for a pit jack that spans the entire pit width.

I passed 6 mots on H&R's which would fall out when shock is at full extension.

It might be worth asking why your tester is carrying out inspections beyond the standard test.
Im with you, no sorry you are right the MOT test wouldn’t jack the car. I actually copied that info from someone else (bad internet) . But I’m still considering a helper spring, just for own piece of mind, if I ever unloaded the rear (hump back bridge)
 

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Im with you, no sorry you are right the MOT test wouldn’t jack the car. I actually copied that info from someone else (bad internet) . But I’m still considering a helper spring, just for own piece of mind, if I ever unloaded the rear (hump back bridge)
Totally agree about the concern, I felt the same. Until my daily route changed and saw me gapping a level crossing daily.

Realistically the best solution would be to get yourself a secondhand set of decent coilovers. That way you can set the rear preload via the shock height, so you'll never go negative preload regardless if how long the car is in the air for.

It would fall in line with the purpose of your car given it's intended use. And is a simple night and day difference over springs. And much more comfortable.
 
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Discussion Starter · #77 · (Edited)
So i've had the full exhaust system replaced.

I picked up a full system but later found the centre section was de-cated and the cat-back I didn't like
I also picked up the Mountune cat-back

Miltek 4 in 1 manifold > custom sport cat centre section > Mountune cat-back

I didn't realise it but the car already had a Miltek down pipe so I can sell that on.

We cut the old flexi and flange off the Miltek manifold and replaced with new flexi and v-band coupling. The centre section was done as straight without bends as there was sufficient clearance, and due to the shorter cat back of the Mountune a small angle to accommodate this.

Here is the person that did the work, I was really impressed


For reference Mongoose and Mountune cat backs are after the slight bend on the centre section, Miltek and Scorpion cat back are longer and include this small bend.

Really happy with the outcome, its loud at 1/2 throttle and above but cruises at 70mph without drone or much sound at all, in fact if you drive below 1/3 throttle it's as quiet as stock with windows up. I think its made the induction louder if that's possible (maybe on valve overlap?). Next step is the ST170 brakes which I've sent the carriers away for blasting. Ready to paint.

While the car was in the air I had a check of the rust, It's looking better than I thought, I may start considering some underbody treatment

Then onto fitting the MR200 Manifold

For reference the exhaust tip is central its just the angle I've taken the photo at
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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
So bit of an update I’ve started the ST170 brake upgrade

I sent the carriers off for blasting and priming to save me a bit of work,when they came back I painted them over 3 days and serviced the slider pins.

I decided to start on the rear as I thought it would be the easiest. Well that was a mistake, I sheared one bolt on the driver side hub. Removing hub to replace dust shield.

Just finishing off the rear before moving onto the fronts

I’ve refitted the hub with 3 bolts just for moving around the driveway. Going to attempt to remove the bolt or I’ll buy a new hub.

Before I started the brakes I fitted the mountune roll restrictor, this has to be the best modification I’ve done. No more shake on start up. No additional vibration, better gear change, better throttle response , removed an exhaust rattle. And the handling is better as well

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Small update, I've been having a slight issue with the nearside calliper not fully releasing after the handbrake is released, the mechanical mechanism seems to not fully release. it appears to be a cable based issue. To be fair i noted this a few months ago and did a quick fix, so I've ordered a rear cable kit. Touch wood this resolves the issue.
 
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