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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, after a few hours I have done it, and here's a quick guide for anyone who's interested.

First things first, the power wire;

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After you've done that run that down the side of the car to the back, I removed the rear bench to help gain access to the boot and to run the wires along so they are 100% hidden. Along with the power wire I ran the remote wire from the fuse box along with the power wire into the boot. I attached the wire to the city stop (which isn't used) with a wire in fuse which you can get from eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-Add-a-Circuit-Fuse-Tap-Piggy-Back-Mini-Blade-Fuse-Holder-12-24-Volt-NEW-/200942367661?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Terminals_Cabling_ET&hash=item2ec91933ad . Now you have to cut into the speaker wires. There is no need to remove the radio for this, the wires are running along the side of the doors, so the wires you need are:

PASSENGER SIDE

Brown/yellow & white/green

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DRIVERS SIDE

Brown/blue & white/brown

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I attached them with these http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_180127_langId_-1_categoryId_255229 so you don't have to cut into the wires. Run normal speaker wires to the boot and connect with this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270662823340?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&clk_rvr_id=502584419223 , now connect all the wires into the RCA converter then connect up to your amp.

Now for the ground there is a bolt in the top left hand corner of the boot (under where the parcel shelf fits) undo the bolt and fit your ground, then wire up all the wires into the amp and hey presto! Put all the panels back together and your done!

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Mr Angry
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Nice guide there, im looking to put a flat sub box under the adjustable boot floor, the big old bass box is a bit much for me plus i need the boot space these days!
 

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I'd reccomend bringing the wiring through the main grommit behind the glove box, if it's the same as the fiesta van then there is already a slot part through it at the top so just poke a long screwdriver through then pull the cable through there. Or if you do run it that way i would say use conduit on it as its surrounded by alot of metal work and the hinges of the bonnet. And also i would say never ever use cable lock connectors, they are useless and at my work we are strictly banned from using them due to reliability, it is better to tap into the actual connectors of where the cable meet the speakers as then its simply a case of remove the connector at the end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'd reccomend bringing the wiring through the main grommit behind the glove box, if it's the same as the fiesta van then there is already a slot part through it at the top so just poke a long screwdriver through then pull the cable through there. Or if you do run it that way i would say use conduit on it as its surrounded by alot of metal work and the hinges of the bonnet.
I must change the pics then as I did tidy it up so its now all nicely out of the way of the hinges. I know none of its a propper job but it works and sounds really good! I'm really pleased with it. Plus it's a guide designed for people who don't want to take the radio out which is a huge faf, plus I think getting to the rear speakers is an even bigger faf!!
 

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does doing it this way not leave a power supply constantly running to amp from the battery as there is no remote turn off? usually a blue wire from head unit? (I know you have done this to show without removing head unit)

On that note has anyone put a sub/amp in and connected it up to the headunit? is it possible?
 

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Along with the power wire I ran the remote wire from the fuse box along with the power wire into the boot. I attached the wire to the city stop (which isn't used) with a wire in fuse which you can get from eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-Add-a-Circuit-Fuse-Tap-Piggy-Back-Mini-Blade-Fuse-Holder-12-24-Volt-NEW-/200942367661?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Terminals_Cabling_ET&hash=item2ec91933ad .
So therefore when you turn the car on the amp turns on. Remote wire only has to go somewhere that turns on and off with the car
 

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The bass on the standard speakers is really good for what it is, I know fords speakers are pretty good..
Miss the bass out of the polo but its in the other polo if I want my insides to shake


Great guide all though i must say on the way you have rutted the cable isn't great, if a accident was to happen on that door area, then the cable could split causing the body to go live before the fuse blows which would cause alot of problems..
I fit sound systems as a hobby and try and do it the best/knowledgeable way as it makes it more professional seeing no cables etc..

How does it cope having the sub spliced into the rear speakers as surely you have to have the bass quite high on the head unit to send a decent signal to the amp to get a good punch?

PLEASE SAY YOU HAVE A IN-LINE FUSE SOMEWHERE!!!
 

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Is there any fuse that you can tap into so that the remote has a live signal when the car is on without the engine running? e.g. position 1 or 2 on a normal key ignition?
 

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Managed to install my sub over the weekend. Sounds good but I still need to mess with the amp settings a bit more to get it to my liking!

Not got any pictures but a couple of tips from my (painful!) experience:

1) When routing the power cable, you can go through the firewall but to do this you'll want to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, take the black metal plate that covers it and then tape the power cable to an old metal coat hanger and feed it through. If you try and do this without taking the black plate off, your hand/wrist/arm will get scrapped and cut to bits!

2) Running the remote lead from a wire in fuse that lsweet86 mentioned is a decent way to get the remote signal (if you do buy one and connect it to the active city stop, you'll need to buy TWO fuses - I made the mistake in thinking only one fuse was enough but you need one fuse to complete the circuit in the fuse box, and the other fuse completes the circuit for (and fuses) your remote signal.

3) I tapped into the back of the head unit to make preamps. It's a bit nerve-wrecking the first time but if you have decent removal tools and pay attention to where the clips are as you're trying to pry you should be fine.
 

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Hi everyone,

I tried this method to wire up amp and sub everything seems ok except no sound from sub. Everything appears to power up fine amp turns off and powers on when ignition goes on and appears to shut down ok i.e all lights turn off. but no sound from speakers connected to amp

any help out there
 

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Ford speakers are good! What the bloody hell have you been smoking. Highest volume I've had mine on was 14 and now they rattle like mad. Piece of ****ing **** they are 😂 my old corsa c 1.2 had better rear speakers haha
 

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Hi everyone,

I tried this method to wire up amp and sub everything seems ok except no sound from sub. Everything appears to power up fine amp turns off and powers on when ignition goes on and appears to shut down ok i.e all lights turn off. but no sound from speakers connected to amp

any help out there
Might sound obvious, but tends to always be that way with this sort of thing... Are all the connections secure and connected in the right place? Earthed properly (although that would probably mean amp wouldn't power up)? Gain dialled up? Headunit settings giving output?
 

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Thanks Alec,

went back to the obvious as you suggested and went over everything and the connections to the RF converter were not done correctly :whistle: :whistle: :whistle: . I went over them again and :thud: all working. :notworthy:
 

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Dunno if anyone has any ideas, I had the sub fitted at a car electrical shop and they sliced into the rear speaker wires to get the signal. The only problem is that there's loads of bass if I turn the dsp to driver but if I switch it to everyone most of the bass disappears.
 

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Is there an RCA adaptor for the standered head unit?
There isn't an adapter, but you can make your own,
Go to a good car audio shop and they'll get you the parts you need.
I had a parrot blue tooth harness, and chopped the part for the parrot Bluetooth off, ( so now it is effectively just an extension of the loom)
And then with some speaker cable and a high to low level convert, spliced into the 'extension'.

I didn't want to cut into factory wiring.

Working well. Can't remember what wire does what but you can get a remote cable of it aswell.(which only works with ignition)

The hardest part is trying to get all the extra cables and connector to fit when re installing the head unit
 
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