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Nicely done...any dramas?

Get a video up ☺
Morning @Vulpes

Some drama's;

Catch can went well, the Map wiring is tight, was all good when the engine was turned over, then closing the bonnet problem happed as we left it to last.

It was past midnight on a residental street was not going to start cutting the 2nd skin of the bonnet for the throttle body, So couldn't secure the bonnet.

Even though the latch is present, the bonnet bar that it connects to fouls on the plenum; Will need to cut it a bit off so it connects to the latch but doesn't touch the plenum.

So the secret to getting the latch in was:

By the top of headlight, crack the bolts to move the slam panel a few mm. Then had to nip a bit of the latch holder so it could be fitted when fed from the bottom.

I learnt you need cut a blanking plug and not pick at it. :rolleyes:

Therefore I snaped off one of the line feeders into the plenum and had to T-piece the brake and fuel one to one outlet.
Then didn't secure the brake booster line correclty and that popped off, causing one hard brake pedal - Nothing a few cable ties couldn't fix on the test run.

Will get some video's posted in the nearest future.
 

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Yeah, the standard black nylon pipes that are used for pretty much everything on the Mk6 are fairly brittle by now. I've swapped all of mine out.
 

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Have you done any logging to see what temperatures the MAP sensor think's it's seeing over ambient? You'd hope that the plastic would be somewhat lower than the cast versions, I fitted a thermal gasket to mine, so I'd be interested in how they roughly compare. Mine is very cool to the touch after a good track session, but it does start to soak heat when not on the move (which is to be expected, of course)
 

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I have a bungie cord holding my bonnet down. I need an angle grind to finish the job, which I haven't got one to hand at the mo.

So the car is not being driven till it's sorted. I will try log some data to see what it's like, when it's safe to drive and i'll give it some!
 
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