[Marv_st]

Wowzers, someone actually running an egr. Next time the inlets off. Remove the copper egr pipe and it'll go on easier. And while you're at it blank the egr. Your valves will thank you.

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Hi Marv,
LOL, I'm hoping I never have to take the manifold off ever again !!!
I couldn't understand what you meant about the copper pipe, but I've had a look at the pictures and see what you mean.
What will blanking the egr valve do ?

While I've got you, having some "issues".

Rang Ford today, bearing still back ordered from Germany ( they have emailed for update, so will ring again next week), but thought I'd do something this afternoon.

Fitted input shaft seal

Happy with how it went in,
View from inside

Looks flush with where bearing seats, but slave cylinder is now approx 6mm proud.

I'm suspecting they have sent me the wrong clutch pack as this drawing ( in the clutch packet shows a plastic collar ( which won't fit over the input shaft )

Any ideas ?

Thx

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Hi All,

Well todays playing with gearbox has been a propper nightmare, Torqued the crowheel bolts up to 90nm which went fine, pushed the diff bearings home on the lsd which again was ok.
Cant get the two halfs of the casing together

Thinking I need to push one of the outer diff bearings out

The one with the washers behind
Anyway - more fun tommorrow.

 

[_jimmy_]

You can disable the EGR anyway but this is part of the system and redundant once EGR is disabled. It's a hindrance for removing and fitting the manifold. Doesn't really matter though

 

[Marv_st]

What Jimmy said.

The egr recirculated exhaust gasses back into your inlet manifold. It keeps down intake temps when running rubbish fuel (low grade fuel that we don't even sell in the UK). Which stops detonation.
Not an issue for us whatsoever with our grade fuel.

As far as the clutch... I urge you to make sure the clutch master cylinder hard pipe fits into the slave cylinder BEFORE fitting the box back up.

Once upon a time, ford sent me the wrong slave. I fitted everything back up. Went to attach the hard pipe... No bueno. I wasn't best pleased.

Off it all came.

 

[Vulpes]

You've definitely got a problem if the case won't go together even without any of the internals inside.

 

[alan ST Bentley]

What Jimmy said.

The egr recirculated exhaust gasses back into your inlet manifold. It keeps down intake temps when running rubbish fuel (low grade fuel that we don't even sell in the UK). Which stops detonation.
Not an issue for us whatsoever with our grade fuel.

As far as the clutch... I urge you to make sure the clutch master cylinder hard pipe fits into the slave cylinder BEFORE fitting the box back up.

Once upon a time, ford sent me the wrong slave. I fitted everything back up. Went to attach the hard pipe... No bueno. I wasn't best pleased.

Off it all came.

Hi Marv,
I've checked the pipe fits and its fine, it was the fact that the slave cylinder dosn't sit flush against the bell housing now the input shaft oil seal is in that was concerning.

 

[alan ST Bentley]

You've definitely got a problem if the case won't go together even without any of the internals inside.

Hi Vulpes,
The LSD was in the case, thats why I wondered if it was the front diff bearing ( the one with the washers ) not home enough. The rear bearing is fully bottomed out in the casing
Good point, I should have taken the LSD out and tried again, on lates this week so try @ weekend.
Thx

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Hi All,

Well, made "some" progress in sorting the slave cylinder issue.
Had a brainwave this morning and realised id fitted the seal the wrong way round, I'd assumed the writing went on the outside !!
Anyway carefully removed seal, refitted correctly, fitted slave cylinder, but as it tightened down, it just pushed seal through into the inside of the box.
Removed slave cylinder and offered two up, no way is it going on.
Checked old seal that came out - perfect fit

As you can see from the pic above, the Burton seal ( the one with the lug shaped cut outs ) Is a lot thicker round the edge of the seal.
Phoned Burton to check I hadn't bought the wrong seal and they confirmed it was the correct one, they say ( and I have no reason to disbelieve them ) that they have sold hundreds and never had an issue.
So its back to Ford.
I'm not bothered about the cost of the seal, £4 isn't going to bankrupt me, but how strange

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Hi All,
Phoned Ford, took about 15 mins to get them to understand the seal I wanted but finally identified ptno 1013800 ( £16 +vat) HOW MUCH !!!!
Anyway they have it so hopefulloy can get it tommorrow.

Removed LSD from box, fully cleaned casing locating dowels and hey presto.

Fits like a glove - so I'll have another go tommorrow with the LSD fitted to see if the bearing shell needs to go into the casing a bit further

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Hi All,

After yesterdays "limited success" getting the cases together I opened them up again this morning and checked diff bearing shells were seated fully. Both inner races went a fraction further onto the diff and I pushed the rear outer shell until the washers behind would turn but had only minimal lift behind the shell.

Cases back together with diff fitted

There is resistance when turning the cv joints, which I would expect as theres a dirty great bing diff inside now and only a smear of oil on the bearings, I may be being too cautious, but my neigbour who is a mechanic is coming round to check it over tommorrow.

Its the bits like this where an expert would know if something is too tight by feel that I knew would cause me problems.

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Hi All,

Spent most of this morning rebuilding the mainshaft.
I had stripped it about a week ago and completly cleaned everything.
But as Ford are taking an age to come up with the bottom bearing I was worried if I left al the parts in a box, I'd forget how it all went together.
Used a little fresh gearbox oil to aid re assembly.

The hardest bit was getting these little bits to fit

They locate in these cut outs in the rings where the lifter forks go into,

and the cut outs in the syncro rings have to line up with them.

Amazing what goes on inside a gearbox 😁

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Hi All,

Ford output seal arrived this morning, after being quoted £16 from Ford, found a genuine Ford one on ebay for £7 ( bit better )

New seal & slave clinder now fitted

 

[zippy_st]

Well done so far mate, and its always frustrating when you are just waiting for parts!
If you havent you could try a gearbox repair company, they often have various bearings etc in stock for different things, or at least a source for them

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Well done so far mate, and its always frustrating when you are just waiting for parts!
If you havent you could try a gearbox repair company, they often have various bearings etc in stock for different things, or at least a source for them

Hi zippy
cheers, yeah may be worth checking out, theres a couple of gearbox places near me, so nothing to loose

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Hi All,

As if I havn;t got enough going on atm, thought id try and do something about the stereo in the ST.
I actually quite like the sound from the standard sony 6006, but want a bit more bass,
I've got some 7" fli speekers that came out of another car I had a few years ago, planning on putting them in the front doors

only issue, i've lost the tweeter housings, so will have to put them inside the door ( which I know isn't perfect )

Picked up some 5" flis to go in the back

and this beast for the boot

Its a bit tatty, but I plan on building a new box to fit the boot better

Now just got to find a suitable amp to run the sub ( and stop watching Texas Metal, as they make everything look so easy ) lol

 

[AE3]

take the sub out and check if its single or dual voice coil and what ohm they are

 

[alan ST Bentley]

take the sub out and check if its single or dual voice coil and what ohm they are

Hi AE3,
This is the back of the sub

I can't find any thing that says what you asked, it just says 300W RMS, 1200W PEAK.
The wires were connected to the two outer connectors

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Hi All,
Finally motivated myself to get on with putting the front back on

Mostly went ok, until I found an aircon pipe bracket, which looks like it should have been connected to the manifold

Found a load of bolts, I'd put back in their correct places ( and forgotten to clean up and spray )

Out with the spray board ( again )

 

[AE3]

its in the model number, 1202D dual 2 ohm so you'll want an amp that outputs at 4ohm if you wire in series or 1ohm if its wired in parallel

edit: and while you have the front end apart, take the opportunity to upgrade the battery to chassis cable. a good quality 4awg copper cable