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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

How do you tell if the ST is burning oil? I don’t use it alot but today I took it for a run and decided to check the oil and there wasn’t a lot in there which got me worried. Only changed the oil recently.

There’s no black smoke on start up but the back bumper does get covered in soot every time I use it. The car has done over 120k and has been serviced regularly.

Any advice would be great.
 

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2006 ST150
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113 Posts
Hey man, these engines are known for being oil kettles unfortunately and do burn through the oil. Had mine since March and done 1,300 miles and still good but am changing the oil end of the month. Do you know how many miles you done since last change?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I’ve probably only done around 800miles since the last change. The engine runs so well tho, no problems at all.
 

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126 Posts
If it's not leaking, it's burning it...

I bet it's the piston rings, especially at that mileage... For comparison, mine were noticeably toast before 80k.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How long will the engine last like this then? Will it eventually blow up or can I just keep on topping up the oil until I can source a new engine?
 

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81 Posts
I have maybe leak on rear crankshaft seal for the past three months, and it's getting pretty worse for wear now. Still the oil levels are not too bad, even on 145k miles. Last oil analysis didn't find any high levels of metals in the car, just a higher fuel dilution.

Going on the ramp next week, the guy won't quote me a price till he can confirm it is that for himself. I wonder how much?

Have got the seal and new clutch to go in, even thou the old one has 35k on it and is in good nick as witnessed when putting a new box on, which was missold to me as it is a zetec S box as the gear ratios are way different.
 

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How long will the engine last like this then? Will it eventually blow up or can I just keep on topping up the oil until I can source a new engine?
You'd be better off rebuilding it, unless you're planning to replace it with a refurbished engine? As any engine you buy is likely to be of a similar age / state?

The parts are cheap - sub £300, but the job is labour intensive.

What usually kills Duratecs is that owners don't notice the oil consumption, so it gets lower and lower and that's what causes a failure.

The other tell tell, is how quickly the oil turns from golden to black after your oil change.. if it's already looking fairly black and nasty then it will be the rings.
 

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I have maybe leak on rear crankshaft seal for the past three months, and it's getting pretty worse for wear now. Still the oil levels are not too bad, even on 145k miles. Last oil analysis didn't find any high levels of metals in the car, just a higher fuel dilution.

Going on the ramp next week, the guy won't quote me a price till he can confirm it is that for himself. I wonder how much?

Have got the seal and new clutch to go in, even thou the old one has 35k on it and is in good nick as witnessed when putting a new box on, which was missold to me as it is a zetec S box as the gear ratios are way different.
You should be able to sell the ZS box here / online easily (assuming it's from a 1.6 petrol), as it has the shorter final drive ratio that's desirable to people building trackday cars and such.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Does anyone how much a mechanic would charge to fit a engine if I sourced the parts or another engine?
 

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Hard to say. So many variables..

But it's probably a fair estimate of circa 8-10 hours work to remove and refit.
 

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You should be able to sell the ZS box here / online easily (assuming it's from a 1.6 petrol), as it has the shorter final drive ratio that's desirable to people building trackday cars and such.
So bottom end it's quite fun, change gears quicker and yes it's about 3.6k RPM @70 - Which has effected the MPG alot!

Simply, I cannot trust anyone really selling one - as most of the time an ST one will be abused regardless!

A rebuild at the start of the year was out of my budget, It does work and goes! and yes assuming it's 1.6, as the Top end is about 120mph not the 135mph odd the ST150 box does.
 

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Yes that's right... It's a common mod to fit the 1.6 Final drive ratio into the ST box, and keep all other ST gears the same. You trade off top end speed for acceleration and keeping the car in the power band of engines with cams.

Keep an eye on Facebook Market place, there seems to be less snakes than eBay. I don't use Facebook, but... I've just picked up two gearboxes from there for £50 total.
 

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2005 mk6 Fiesta ST
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2,046 Posts
One thing to be aware of when reading the level is the dipstick almost always under-reads on the first check. You either have to wipe it off and read again or what I do is just pull it up a few inches and then push it back down and then read it, usually gives a (much) higher reading than the first.

Mine burns a bit but only at high rpms (must be the rings), so its only an issue if i sit at 80+ on the motorway or on track
 

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Mk6 Fiesta ST150, 2006, Panther Black
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126 Posts
Is it best to read the dip stick from cold or once it’s warmed up?
Pretty sure cold is the standard across most cars. It takes a while for all the oil to drain back into the sump if the car has been warmed up.
 

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Dip it cold, also ensure you always read it from the same place... Ie if you read it with the small cutout facing towards the rear of the car, make sure you read it in the same way the next time.

If you turn it through 180degrees you'll get two different readings on these engines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the replies guys. I’m obviously going to keep an eye on it and probably take it off the road for the winter and source another engine.
 
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