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Discussion Starter · #221 ·
So, nigh on £300 later and a full set of bearings and some valve stem seals are here.
In oem form these parts would have totalled £80.
But that's the price of nigh on 400bhp.
The new bearings are heavy duty. They contain lead and other more durable soft metals, apposed to the oem aluminium and tin.

The cons of performance bearings (other than cost)?
Longevity. They can take a beating, but they aren't designed to last 2-300k miles.

But they should keep this motor running sweet and well protected for more than long enough.

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Discussion Starter · #222 ·
So... the story of this head, has... thickened.
It was off a donor engine that supposedly had rod knock.
Strange considering the head was immaculate.

It was only when doing the valve clearances that I began to see a pattern. Oem exhaust cam is being used with a Newman ph2 intake cam. All valve buckets and valves were put back in the exact order that they came out.

Every single valve clearance on the exhaust side was non existent and the Intake cam wasn't much better (as expected due to the change of cam).
My guess is, the previous owner removed the head and had head work carried out by a machine shop, including machining the valve seats. Then fitted the same buckets back in even though the clearances were dog poop. And when I say they were bad... your average oem valve bucket would be between 3.402mm and 3.502mm, with the odd exception the rule of .100mm. One of these valve seats is so low it requires a specialist 'short valve' bucket, coming in at 2.982 to the middle of the tolerance band.

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Luckily I can get away with using a 3.000mm bucket, so nothing fancy.
I only need 5 buckets apposed to the original 14 (out of 16) because I have a big box of spare buckets for this very occasion.

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I can only guess the lad that rebuilt the engine was an idiot, going by the cheap valve stem seals he used, and the fact that his engine lost compression due to his slap-dashery.

Anyway, 5 buckets on order from ford. Which means no bodging needed by 'tickling' the valve stems.

Happy days.

Also, the wiseco rings and arp fixings have just turned up

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Those bucket shims are a whole world of fun. Ive got a head to build next week, and I'm already having nightmares. I've found some of the bucket sizes hard to obtain lately, so I either rely on the spares I keep or hope Burton's have them.

Have you seen the duratec excel spreadsheet that floats around? It auto calculates the shim required. Saves a bit of time, and is useful as a cross reference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #224 ·
Those bucket shims are a whole world of fun. Ive got a head to build next week, and I'm already having nightmares. I've found some of the bucket sizes hard to obtain lately, so I either rely on the spares I keep or hope Burton's have them.

Have you seen the duratec excel spreadsheet that floats around? It auto calculates the shim required. Saves a bit of time, and is useful as a cross reference.
Yeah I used it a few years ago and found it more reliable to manually do it. Or maybe I've done it FAR to much to accept change.
Measure clearance.
If its too small.
Ideal valve clearance minus actual valve clearance.
Then minus that figure off of the bucket size you have currently.

Example

0.254-0.127= 0.127

Current bucket= .402

402-127=275 <- correct bucket size

If the clearance is too big then multiply instead of subtract.

You can get all sizes from ford. Thankfully I get them at circa £7 a go via a friend.

Here's a snippet of what ford offer, this is just in the range I need

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All my spares are in the 360 to 500 range. Which for most heads with machined valve seats, are just far to thick.

If you have a head to build leave yourself plenty of time to obtain spares.
I built this one up with a port clean and lapping in circa 6 hours. The rest of the time is waiting on the 5 buckets I need to get it off my bench and out my workshop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #225 ·
So yesterday I got a couple hours on my own car for a change.
I found a source for the cluster pinout. Located the fuel sender signal and ground, wired in my own test gauge and set the potentiometer accordingly. Happy days.

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As you may know, the plan is to get rid of the oem cluster. Which in doing so will remove the indicator and hazard switch sounder located within the clocks.
So I've located the switched ground wires for left and right indicators and have 3 intermittent sounders on their way to me now. I wanted to run 1 sounder via a diode setup, but where its a switched ground, I'm pretty sure that's not possible without complications.

The long and short of it is, I located the ground wires, tee'd in an old fog light to an ignition live and LHS switched ground. Then triggered the LHS indicator. The solid light that was triggered told me I needed an intermittent sounder, apposed to continuous.

Very boring I know... but very necessary all the same. Now to just do the same with the hazards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #226 ·
I've kind of lost the plot a bit now. Have ordered a Stack fuel gauge. Was looking at the basic range they do (still £150 odd!), but was lured in by the Pro range as it can be programmed in depth AND wired into a standalone or data logger if I wish. Another perk is that I can set the background colour to change at any point on the gauge. This function will be used to glow red when falling under 1/8th of a tank remaining.
A little bit more advanced than my £13 test gauge.

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I've kind of lost the plot a bit now. Have ordered a Stack fuel gauge. Was looking at the basic range they do (still £150 odd!), but was lured in by the Pro range as it can be programmed in depth AND wired into a standalone or data logger if I wish. Another perk is that I can set the background colour to change at any point on the gauge. This function will be used to glow red when falling under 1/8th of a tank remaining.
A little bit more advanced than my £13 test gauge.

View attachment 588927
Hi Marv,
LOL, I was thinking your test gauge looked fancy, it does look cool, what are the W & P buttons, or are they lights ? (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #228 ·
Hi Marv,
LOL, I was thinking your test gauge looked fancy, it does look cool, what are the W & P buttons, or are they lights ? (y)
The test gauge is cheap, nasty and not hugely accurate. The w and p are used to program the gauges values with the oem fuel sender. As well as entering a custom calibration mode. The light that changes colour is the entire gauge back-light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #229 ·
Oooookayyyy, so.... I've been doing some more 'CAD', this time for a switch panel to mount my fire extinguisher board, button and a hazard light switch.

You wouldn't have thought I spent over a decade as an architectural modelmaker/prop maker.

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Right... now you've finished laughing... just bare with me.

Have also wired in the 2 sounders for L and R indicators. Hazards are proving difficult as the way the hazard switch works, is as a momentary switch. The circuit is forever live (unlike most switch live/ground circuits), and the momentary switch merely signals the ecu by momentarily switching the resistance.
So wiring a sounder to an always live circuit, is just completely useless.
Therefore I have a latching hazard switch on the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #230 ·
I'm back, with less... cardboard.

Got most of the structure made up for the switch panel.
MEK is doing its job overnight. I'll test fit tomorrow, then make up mounts to fix it to the centre console. And make the front plate.

Then comes the long long job of flatting and painting.

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Discussion Starter · #231 ·
Got a few more hours in today. Fire extinguisher controller and trigger cut in nicely.
Just needs the edges taking off and the hazard switch fitting that's literally just arrived.

Then paint.

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also, the fuel gauge arrived.
So that just needs the loom that comes with it wiring into the wires on the car that I have seperated and ready to go.
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Got a few more hours in today. Fire extinguisher controller and trigger cut in nicely.
Just needs the edges taking off and the hazard switch fitting that's literally just arrived.

Then paint.

View attachment 589047

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also, the fuel gauge arrived.
So that just needs the loom that comes with it wiring into the wires on the car that I have seperated and ready to go.
View attachment 589046
Hi Marv,

Looking good, what was stopping you using the OEM Hazzard switch ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #233 ·
Hi Marv,

Looking good, what was stopping you using the OEM Hazzard switch ?
As above 'the hazard switch works, is as a momentary switch. The circuit is forever live (unlike most switch live/ground circuits), and the momentary switch merely signals the ecu by momentarily switching the resistance.
So wiring a sounder to an always live circuit, is just completely useless.
Therefore I have a latching hazard switch on the way'

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Apologies for the bad focus, was a quick snap last night before I packed up. Hazard switch in and a 1.5mm chamfer added to all edges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #235 ·
Got the dash back in today. Boring photos for you all as its much the same as the others with subtle differences.
Fuel gauge and oil temp guage wired in. Just need to calibrate the fuel guage.

Old Diana's getting there.

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Still a s**t tip and that heater matrix needs to be taken out still. But with my back the way it is and Ford Power Live only around the corner, it'll have to wait till after September 18th.
Waiting on a few odds and sods, may make a backing plate tomorrow to mount the dash to. I'll see how I feel

Also, that head has been sat on my workbench finished for a few days now. The exhaust valve seat on port 7 had been machined so much previously, that even with the smallest valve bucket I could obtain, I still needed .300mm, so I had to remove a valve and remove it off the top of the valve stem.
It's not something I like to do as it screams bodge. But it's perfectly safe and it's the only option avaliable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #236 ·
I drained the tank a couple days ago using an electric pump in preparation to calibrate the new fuel guage.
A friend turned up lat last night with 40 litres of the spicy stuff.
I calibrated the empty value, brimmed the tank (exactly 40L, so there was 5L that wouldn't pump out), then calibrated the full value.
Changed the back-light to white, changed the low level warning to 1/4 tank and the warning back-light colour to orange.
Have a 12v dimmer on order as on full brightness, at night it's like staring into a bowl of ignited magnesium.
The stack official dimmer switch is £46!!! I assume because its for motorsport and it would control a whole array of gauges and a dash.

Needless to say, I have an RS dimmer from ebay. Which for those that know 12v electronics well. RS are the go to for durable and reliable components.

I don't have and new pictures to show.
 

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Discussion Starter · #237 ·
Took my rooflining out to remove the curtain airbags finally.
2 bags, 6 metal brackets and 2 'pretentioners' coming in at a whopping 4kg.
While I was being a saddo weighing stuff, the passenger airbag is 2kg.
Rear speakers are 2kg
Clocks are 500g
Rear speaker supports that were cut out 1kg

I have loads left to weigh. It isn't necessarily about weight reduction. More of a cr*p reduction.

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^probably something that not many people can say they've seen in a mk6 fiesta.
 

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Took my rooflining out to remove the curtain airbags finally.
2 bags, 6 metal brackets and 2 'pretentioners' coming in at a whopping 4kg.
While I was being a saddo weighing stuff, the passenger airbag is 2kg.
Rear speakers are 2kg
Clocks are 500g
Rear speaker supports that were cut out 1kg

I have loads left to weigh. It isn't necessarily about weight reduction. More of a cr*p reduction.

View attachment 589229

^probably something that not many people can say they've seen in a mk6 fiesta.
Wow, that's a lot of weight saving - you can install an expresso machine now :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter · #239 ·
So I had a wiring loom issue mid this week. Ended up swapping the entire engine loom for a spare I have. As the AC fuse kept blowing and I don't even have AC! Which was causing no spark, as the AC is tied in with the ignition system and injectors.

Aswell as locking the engine (only via starter) where the cylinders filled with fuel. Removed the spark plugs, turned it over and had a Marv Vegas fountain display in petrol.
The oil was also over 20% fuel so also needed changing.

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So, spent a long time buttoning things up. To the point that it fired over at 8pm last night.
Made a new ecu mount while I was at it and changed the seeping dowty washer on the eaps.

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Finished reassembling the front end this morning and took it on a test drive at 11am. My first time driving in almost 3 months.
Then gave it a quick wash with my geriatric microfiber mit on a telescopic stick.

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So much for resting and taking it easy on the build up to Ford Power Live tomorrow.

Anyway. Its ready.
 
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