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Discussion Starter · #261 · (Edited)
Mini update. The race heater turned up a couple days ago followed by some 3d printed bezels and ducting. Total heater weight is circa 1.1kgs.
It'll be 100mm PU ducting from the firewall to the race heater. Then 4x 50mm outlets running to the screen via the dash.

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This won't be going in for a little while as it'll take a bit of bending and flexing. Which I've not got in me at the mo.

But I did take time to make a new handle for the hatchet I broke, out of scrap metal.

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It'll have some 10mm ID hose on the handle to stop my arm ringing everytime I use it.

Red-neck science.
 

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Discussion Starter · #262 ·
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Race heater fitted a few days ago. All that's left to do is replace the cardboard with steel and fix the second bellmouth too it for an air feed. The other two 50mm ducts need fitting. Then just wiring and tidying up.

I'll be grabbing some steel sheet on Tuesday as I'm heading over to the Joncespeed workshop to finish assembling the turbo duratec and getting it mounted in the mk5 zs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #263 ·
Got some time this afternoon to finish off the wiring on the heater and make a panel for the firewall.

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if anyone wants to buy a bonet, drop me a message.
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Allllso, had to transport the 2.0T duratec for the mk5 zs build, to our local pirtek yesterday... which was, stressful.

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Ignore the oil drain hose, its not staying, believe it or not, its been using that shocking setup for 6 years!
 

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Discussion Starter · #264 ·
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All in with some dynamat over the top. All tested and working as it should. Now just to add coolant and bleed the system. Then dash back in and away we go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #266 ·
So took the fusion off the bc coilovers this morning and it's now sat on my old st150 suspension. This is all in preparation for some chunky boy tyres to be fitted on Monday. Going from a 205/40/17 to a 205/50/17.
So should be very comfy and will eradicate some of that arch gap.
Tire Car Wheel Vehicle Automotive side-view mirror


Also over winter I plan to extend my loom adapter from the oem engine harness to ecumaster ecu.
Bought a wiring kit purely for the ease of having all the correct gauge wiring... AAAÀND... they're all printed with their exact identity. Which pleases me greatly.

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Also had a play about with setting up Launch Control. Once I wire the switch in I can fire her up and see what alterations are needed.

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At some point this side of Christmas I'll be dry fitting the 6 point when I get a full day.
 

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Hi Marv

some great custom work here mate hats off to you!

Could you advise on a solution to my problem since you’ve worked so much on the dash please Mate? I have a custom gauge made and a custom dash fascia for it to fit in however myself and the garage are struggling with clearance as the circuit board for the gauge has quite a lot of overhang plus it has a control box that needs to be housed safely so need as much space free’d up as possible.
The red circled part has been cut now but there still seems to be things in the way? I was assuming it would be just the plastic heater vents tubing but it seems like a metal plate? Is my only option to cut / remove it all? I don’t mind losing the air / heater supply for he x2 centre dash vents as long as it’s done safely, cleanly and as long as I can keep the air supply to the outer vents and the vents facing the windscreen for demisting etc
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Any advise would be greatly appreciated! So want to get this finally finished 😔
 

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Discussion Starter · #268 ·
Hi Marv

some great custom work here mate hats off to you!

Could you advise on a solution to my problem since you’ve worked so much on the dash please Mate? I have a custom gauge made and a custom dash fascia for it to fit in however myself and the garage are struggling with clearance as the circuit board for the gauge has quite a lot of overhang plus it has a control box that needs to be housed safely so need as much space free’d up as possible.
The red circled part has been cut now but there still seems to be things in the way? I was assuming it would be just the plastic heater vents tubing but it seems like a metal plate? Is my only option to cut / remove it all? I don’t mind losing the air / heater supply for he x2 centre dash vents as long as it’s done safely, cleanly and as long as I can keep the air supply to the outer vents and the vents facing the windscreen for demisting etc
View attachment 590040

View attachment 590041
View attachment 590042
View attachment 590044

Any advise would be greatly appreciated! So want to get this finally finished 😔
My only advice is this. Remove the dash and look. If there's metal in the way. Then that'll either be a loom bracket that's welded to the dash bar. Or the dash bar itself. The bracket you can cut off with an angle grinder. The dash bar cannot be 'deleted' for obvious reasons.

The heater ducting is modular, so you can twmove sections. But you'll still have a huge open duct on the heater matrix that that would need plugging. Effectively removing all airflow to 'face' vents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #270 ·
Been slowly gathering bits to start making a new harness. Just waiting on a donor oem ecu and some shielded cable. Then I'll be ready to make a start.

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Discussion Starter · #271 ·
Got home from work today to a parcel, the donor ecu had turned up.
Once the little one was in bed I was in the garage doing some fine surgery with a club hammer and a blow torch.

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View attachment 590185
Wood Font Metal Engineering Musical instrument

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The final result in the last 2 images is what will become the plug for my new wiring harness.

Now. I know what you're all thinking, 'Marv, what the frick are you doing, why not just hard wire it into the existing loom?'.

Good question. Like most things on my car. The existing loom is far from standard. And like I've done with other sections of it, everything is made on plugs. Because if I ever had an issue where I needed to replace the loom... scrapping an entire standalone ecu harness with it would be devastating.

Although with no plug it does look a lot neater.

Anyway. The ball is rolling.
Next up is to start pinning the ecumaster side, working out what's running through the firewall, what isn't and then having a go at wrapping the wires concentricly.

Once ALL of that is done. Its simply just Soldering the other ends to their dedicated pins.
 

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Completely agree with keeping the looms in sections, makes sense, especially are cars that often get taken apart time and time again! I would have perhaps changed to a different type of plug/connector, just to save on the soldering really.
Concentric twisting is an art, I wish I had done mine like it. I was trying to work out all the branch offs, and then just thought 'next time'
 

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Discussion Starter · #273 ·
Completely agree with keeping the looms in sections, makes sense, especially are cars that often get taken apart time and time again! I would have perhaps changed to a different type of plug/connector, just to save on the soldering really.
Concentric twisting is an art, I wish I had done mine like it. I was trying to work out all the branch offs, and then just thought 'next time'
I'm keeping the oem plugs on the engine harness side for convenience, I'vealready swapped 1 loom, and i can do it in under an hour. Having a different plug would make that more of an inconvenience. Plus I can solder one side quicker than I can pin 2 sides.

I have made concentric looms before when doing 12v electronics as a modelmaker in a previous profession. Just never for a car. I agree the final result is art, the process itself is pretty straight forward, it just takes time.

I have however decided against a concentric twist now, due to not knowing what inputs I will add at a later date. And not wanting to fill every pin and having excess wire needlessly.

For the price of the parts to make everything. If in years to come I feel I want a concentric loom, I'll just do it again and sell this one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #274 ·
Had a bit of time this evening while the other half was watching I'm a celebrity, so I started toning out my original wire harness.
Cleared the large emu plug which puts me around two thirds complete.

Please don't use this as a legitimate reference as I have reversed the pin count in the photo below for when I'm soldering with the oem plug flipped.
I don't have many extra ecu monitored sensors, so it's only wideband, oil pressure and a logger that are extra to the basic loom.

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Discussion Starter · #275 ·
Getting there. Finished assembling the grey plug. Just waiting on 20m 0.5mm in black and pink for ground an +5v, then it'll just be adding a resistor to the coolant wiring on the plug end and that's all the pinning done for now until I have completed the concentric twist.

I cannot emphasise enough how happy it makes me that every wire is printed with its identity.

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Discussion Starter · #276 ·
So tonight I made a start on twisting the loom. So far so good. The inside cable is the knock sensor signal and ground wiring in some hefty insulation. Once more cable turns up I'll pin the last 25% of the black connector and interweave it into the grey connector wiring.
I also have some DR 25 heat shrink and Kevlar lacing cord on its way for when it's all done.

It'll be a shame to cover it up to be honest.

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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
Second layer done this evening going against the grain. For anyone wanting to do this, it's really quick and easy. The most important thing is setup. Once setup right. Each layer doesn't take more than an hour.

The colours aren't as nice this time round. But it's all getting covered anyway.

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Discussion Starter · #278 · (Edited)
Third and final layer completed last night. This layer took a couple of hours as I had to add packing wire to bulk it out. All held together with kepton tape ready for the DR-25 heat shrink and Kevlar ripcord to go on when they arrive.

Then I'll be making a start on the ford end.

The remaining looped up wires will stay in the cabin and are for 12v battery, data logger and a CAN2 input I'll be using for LC.

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Third and final layer completed last night. This layer took a couple of hours as I had to add packing wire to bulk it out. All held together with kepton tape ready for the DR-25 heat shrink and Kevlar ripcord to go on when they arrive.

Then I'll be making a start on the ford end.

The remaining looped up wires will remain in the cabin and are for 12v battery, data logger and and a CAN2 input I'll be using for LC.

View attachment 590414
Hi Marv,
Been watching your loom grow and as an ex spark it looks luvly, is there a real time benefit for making a loom this way ?

Al
 

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Discussion Starter · #280 ·
Hi Marv,
Been watching your loom grow and as an ex spark it looks luvly, is there a real time benefit for making a loom this way ?

Al
I'm a telco engineer. This is how neat I wish the network was haha.
Yeah, essentially it's packing everything into a smaller space. Making it a lot stronger and less susceptible to wear. Like rope.
I also have the knock sensor cable in the very core. Which is shielded and twisted (unlike oem), so much less likely to suffer interference. Having a roots charger adds a HELL of a lot of nvh and frequency, which is fine if the sensor itself is reading it, but noise ingress to the cable would skew what the ecu see's.
Same goes for the CAN H and L wires. They're twisted together so the signal twists inwards on itself maintaining a good wideband noise.
 
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