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2005, MK6 ST150 (pre face lift )
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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They are direct replacement for the standard Ford calipers. They use the standard ford disc size and a variety of different pad options (you can see these in the bottom half of the Burton Power page)

Unless you use your car on track, the money is better in your pocket.
 

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Premium Member
2005, MK6 ST150 (pre face lift )
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Vulpes.
THx mate, I admit I do like the look of them, but I'm always worried about anodized stuff, been into sports bikes for a long time and seen many boys who use anodised bolts all over, they look great for 1 year but then the anodizing fades and they look crap.
Need to clean my standard calipers up, I've invested a massive £18 in 3 pots of hammerite. Black, Gold, Silver
Which 1 to go for ???? lol
Thx
 

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Hi,
Found these:

Not sure if the link will work.

View attachment 583979
Has anybody got or have any knowledge - Like the thought of 4pots, just want to check out what spares availability is like
Thx
You'd be infinitely better off on the oem brakes with a decent set of pads. Even on track.
Hi-spec are local to me. They look half decent, but that's about it.
 

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Premium Member
2005, MK6 ST150 (pre face lift )
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445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi All,

Well, after come consideration I've decided against a full blown brake upgrade, (mainly due to lack of cash)
So, bought some goodies:

Audio equipment Wood Automotive tire Electrical wiring Gas


Front Pistons & seals
Front Slider overhaul kit
SS Bleed nipples
Goodrich Hoses
Caliper Springs

I've found a place near me who can sandblast the calipers & sliders, but I'm thinking it would make sense to get the hubs blasted at the same time, before repainting everything.
I'm thinking of doing the hubs & sliders in black and the calipers gold ( don't want anything too larey )
Only concern I have is I don't have a press, would sand blasting damage the bearings (I'm assuming they are sealed, but would sand get in, or, is it possible to blank off the bearings with something prior to blasting

Any advice welcomed

Many Thanks
 

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Premium Member
2005, MK6 ST150 (pre face lift )
Joined
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445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi All,
well after speaking to the sand blaster, yeah it will destroy the bearings, so looks like its hubs off and bearings out.
found somewhere local to press bearings out/in, so its all good.
 

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Premium Member
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300 Posts
Hi All,

Well, after come consideration I've decided against a full blown brake upgrade, (mainly due to lack of cash)
So, bought some goodies:

View attachment 584054

Front Pistons & seals
Front Slider overhaul kit
SS Bleed nipples
Goodrich Hoses
Caliper Springs

I've found a place near me who can sandblast the calipers & sliders, but I'm thinking it would make sense to get the hubs blasted at the same time, before repainting everything.
I'm thinking of doing the hubs & sliders in black and the calipers gold ( don't want anything too larey )
Only concern I have is I don't have a press, would sand blasting damage the bearings (I'm assuming they are sealed, but would sand get in, or, is it possible to blank off the bearings with something prior to blasting

Any advice welcomed

Many Thanks
A decent set of pads on even the oem 280mm setup are more than you'll ever need.

After the rebuild they'll feel like night and day with a real good set of pads (not ebc 'stuff' range).
 

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2005, MK6 ST150 (pre face lift )
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445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Simon,
I must have checked this update out in a drunken state cause I didn't read the prices of the pads - say whhhhhhhhhhaaat.

Joking aside.

I bit the bullet and have ST!70 300mm discs and carriers. which i'm refurbing atm.
What pads do you reccommend ? - loads of replies say "decent pads" - what are they ???
Am I right to assume that whatever pads go in the front should also go in the rear ?
Many thanks
 

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Premium Member
2005 mk6 Fiesta ST
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2,146 Posts
Decent pads aren't cheap but worth it if you drive hard. Late braking is more beneficial in an underpowered car ;) I just bought Yellowstuff all around I think it set me back about £200. A lot of people slag off EBC I think they may have had bad experiences which is fair enough if so, but for me they have been good and reliable. Yellows in particular. Make your own mind up basically. I like to brake as late and as hard as possible. Road use mostly, one track day a year, max.
 

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Hi Simon,
I must have checked this update out in a drunken state cause I didn't read the prices of the pads - say whhhhhhhhhhaaat.

Joking aside.

I bit the bullet and have ST!70 300mm discs and carriers. which i'm refurbing atm.
What pads do you reccommend ? - loads of replies say "decent pads" - what are they ???
Am I right to assume that whatever pads go in the front should also go in the rear ?
Many thanks
Personally if I were you I'd get yourself a set of pbs Pro track pads up front and oem pagid pads on the rear. It's a 70/30 bias. So unless you're kicking its head in when fully loaded, then pricey pads on the rear gain you absolutely nothing.

Pbs Pro trsck are an entry level track pad, I've done several trackdays on mine and they're faultless. But the best bit about them, is their cold bite and dust output. The cold bite is phenomenal, which is very important in a road car naturally. They produce just as much dust as the yellowstuff pads I had, except they don't fade under heavy braking. My yellowstuff pads came off after 2 months due to experiencing brake fade down the twisties. If it wasn't my fun car and it was only used to do the shopping and the daily drive I'd have kept them. But they're in a landfill now.

I recently did a track day with a friend in his mk8, he had bluestuff (superior to yellowstuff allegedly) pads which after a 20min stint were smoking and had burnt the alloy wheel coating in places.

While you're at it, look at braided lines and some motul rbf600 fluid. In for a penny in for a pound. Your brakes are the most important part of your car.
 

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Premium Member
2005, MK6 ST150 (pre face lift )
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445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Personally if I were you I'd get yourself a set of pbs Pro track pads up front and oem pagid pads on the rear. It's a 70/30 bias. So unless you're kicking its head in when fully loaded, then pricey pads on the rear gain you absolutely nothing.

Pbs Pro trsck are an entry level track pad, I've done several trackdays on mine and they're faultless. But the best bit about them, is their cold bite and dust output. The cold bite is phenomenal, which is very important in a road car naturally. They produce just as much dust as the yellowstuff pads I had, except they don't fade under heavy braking. My yellowstuff pads came off after 2 months due to experiencing brake fade down the twisties. If it wasn't my fun car and it was only used to do the shopping and the daily drive I'd have kept them. But they're in a landfill now.

I recently did a track day with a friend in his mk8, he had bluestuff (superior to yellowstuff allegedly) pads which after a 20min stint were smoking and had burnt the alloy wheel coating in places.

While you're at it, look at braided lines and some motul rbf600 fluid. In for a penny in for a pound. Your brakes are the most important part of your car.
Cheers Marv,
Your obviously right, pads are most important, I was just supprised just how much they were.
I've got braided hoses to go on
Is the rbf600 compatible with DOT4 thats in atm, or do I need to flush system with anything ?
THx.
 

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Premium Member
2005, MK6 ST150 (pre face lift )
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi All,
Well after a couple of cold hours in the garage, I worked out I could hold the piston in the vice and twist the caliper to get the pistons out :oops:
Everything stripped now and left to soak to get the crap off before I go mad with the wire brush on Sat.
After consideration, I've ditched the idea of sand blasting (for the moment), I'll see how they look just using smooth hammerite.
As the rebuild kits for these calipers are so cheep, if I'm not happy with this set I can get the other set sandblasted and powder coated next year.

Automotive tire Wood Gas Bumper Metal
 

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Cheers Marv,
Your obviously right, pads are most important, I was just supprised just how much they were.
I've got braided hoses to go on
Is the rbf600 compatible with DOT4 thats in atm, or do I need to flush system with anything ?
THx.
Yep rbf600 is dot 4 fluid. And a very good fluid at that. Get yourself 1L of fluid and have at it.
As far as the calipers. Cover up the piston seat with some electrical tape to protect it then go over the capier with a wire wheel drill attachment. The underside round by the piston will require a small manual wire brush.

Enjoy! I find rebuilding calipers very therapeutic.
 

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2005, MK6 ST150 (pre face lift )
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yep rbf600 is dot 4 fluid. And a very good fluid at that. Get yourself 1L of fluid and have at it.
As far as the calipers. Cover up the piston seat with some electrical tape to protect it then go over the capier with a wire wheel drill attachment. The underside round by the piston will require a small manual wire brush.

Enjoy! I find rebuilding calipers very therapeutic.
Hi Marv,
Sorry I've got my knackered head on, when you say "piston seat", do you mean the outer ring that the dust seal locates on ?
Thx.
 

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2005, MK6 ST150 (pre face lift )
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Halfords caliper paint leaves a pretty good finish, it goes on very thin but looks nice and smooth once dried, mine almost look powder coated now
Hi Jimmy,
Thx for the advice, but I've got Hammerite coming out of my ears, so will got with it this time,if I'm not happy with the results I can always re do.
Cheers.
 

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2005, MK6 ST150 (pre face lift )
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445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi All,

I've never liked doing late turns, but at least when I get in theres presents waiting :)

Flush Valves : Wish theyd put 5 in the pack as opposed to 4 !!!!

Automotive tire Wood Hardwood Indoor games and sports Flooring


Jacking point covers : I want to spray them Silver, with the ST150 in red to match the ST badges.
Not sure if it would be best to spray the silver first, then mask and cut out the letters and spray red, or do the red and use masking fluid before doing the silver.

Gadget Material property Ac adapter Font Cable


Think they are pretty good for the money, especially when you see what OEM ones go for on ebay.
Thx
 

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Premium Member
2005, MK6 ST150 (pre face lift )
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445 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi Marv,
Sorry I've got my knackered head on, when you say "piston seat", do you mean the outer ring that the dust seal locates on ?
Thx.
Hi Marv, sory, meant to send this this morning.
Was there a typo in your original post, did you mean "piston seal?".
Ive taken the old seal out so all I've got is the bare caliper, I was going to just fin some really fine wet/dry around the slot where the new seal goes, just to ensure no corrosion behind the seal.
I've got no experience of refurbing cast calipers, I've done loads of bike 4 & 6 pot calipers but they are all anodised ally bodies and after time get a white build up behind the seals which needs cleaning out.
What kind of pressure should you need to push the piston back? on bikes if its all cleaned out properly, with new seals yoou only need light finger pressure.
Thx
 
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