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Mount has arrived. No damage thankfully. Hope get this fitted today. Also just a heads up if anybody wants one they are currently £135 on fleabay.
Got a link?

Are you just leaving the other mount as the standard Ford version? I wondered whether if you replace one, you should replace the other... assuming they work in unison? Or is it perfectly normal to change the RH mount and not the LH?

EDIT: Seems Demon Tweeks have them up at £135 too.
 
Got a link?

Are you just leaving the other mount as the standard Ford version? I wondered whether if you replace one, you should replace the other... assuming they work in unison? Or is it perfectly normal to change the RH mount and not the LH?
EDIT: Seems Demon Tweeks have them up at £135 too.
I got it from demon tweeks ebay page. It says its for a MK6 fiesta in the advert but it's labelled for all MK7'S on the packaging.
 
As I mentioned above a while ago. I wrapped the bottom mount for a REVO mount and swapped both upper mounts for vibra technics fast road mounts. Sharpened the car up considerably. No regrets from me. No difference in vibrations or noise.
 
Apologies for my noob questions... But is it possible just to upgrade the upper mount? I know it's physical possible, but would it then be causing more strain on the stock Ford gearbox mount... Are they very much independent?

I would like to upgrade one at a time, simply for cost reasons... But not sure if they should really be done at the same time or not
 
Apologies for my noob questions... But is it possible just to upgrade the upper mount? I know it's physical possible, but would it then be causing more strain on the stock Ford gearbox mount... Are they very much independent?

I would like to upgrade one at a time, simply for cost reasons... But not sure if they should really be done at the same time or not
Good question to be honest. Never crossed my mind, I did both at the same time so not an issue but a very valid thought. As it adds more resistance or support to the engine from movement it may deflect to the other OEM mount and cause more strain. So its plausible but Im no expert on that.
 
Good question to be honest. Never crossed my mind, I did both at the same time so not an issue but a very valid thought. As it adds more resistance or support to the engine from movement it may deflect to the other OEM mount and cause more strain. So its plausible but Im no expert on that.
I suppose the other school of thought is that by reducing movement and weight shift of the engine in the the top mount, you're also reducing the effect upon on the transmission mount too? 🤔

How much of a ball ache was the transmission mount to fit? Looking at some videos on YouTube, it seems annoying in that you have to remove the battery tray. Was there a guide you followed?
 
I suppose the other school of thought is that by reducing movement and weight shift of the engine in the the top mount, you're also reducing the effect upon on the transmission mount too? 🤔

How much of a ball ache was the transmission mount to fit? Looking at some videos on YouTube, it seems annoying in that you have to remove the battery tray. Was there a guide you followed?
Unfortunately mate, I had the same worries as you, so I enlisted my mate who is a mechanic, who worked at Arnold Clark Ford at the time so he knows the car inside and out. It didnt take him long at all though. He did say hes done many replacements in the past tho which would of sped the process up.
 
I suppose the other school of thought is that by reducing movement and weight shift of the engine in the the top mount, you're also reducing the effect upon on the transmission mount too?

How much of a ball ache was the transmission mount to fit? Looking at some videos on YouTube, it seems annoying in that you have to remove the battery tray. Was there a guide you followed?
It wasn't too much of a ball ache. Removed head light, air box, hose and battery. Taking out the battery tray bolts at the bottom allow you to move it enough out of the way to get to the mount.

I went for the powerflex inserts for this one. Was quite difficult to get the mount back in as it increase it's size, feels fine and does the job though. If I had the choice again I'd get a matching vibra techiques transmission mount.

I found the VT RMM added quite a lot more vibration. No difference in vibration when I fitted the upper VT mount.
 
It wasn't too much of a ball ache. Removed head light, air box, hose and battery. Taking out the battery tray bolts at the bottom allow you to move it enough out of the way to get to the mount.

I went for the powerflex inserts for this one. Was quite difficult to get the mount back in as it increase it's size, feels fine and does the job though. If I had the choice again I'd get a matching vibra techiques transmission mount.

I found the VT RMM added quite a lot more vibration. No difference in vibration when I fitted the upper VT mount.
Ah, so you didn't have to disconnect the ECU? As I understand it is connected to the battery tray?
 
I have the Vibra-Technics Top RH Engine Mount and later had fitted Powerflex Transmission inserts, I can feel a tiny bit of extra vibration at idle, but very minor, I know it's there because I drive my lads ST with stock mounts and can notice less vibration on idle.

After fitting the VT Top Engine mount I could hear an occasional knock/vibration on initial start-up which seemed to be coming from behind the dash, bulkhead area, fitting the Powerflex Transmission inserts sorted this, I reckon if you're going to stiffen up one side of the engine you should do the other side.

So now I have VT top mount, Powerflex trans inserts and CP RMM and car feels very tight upfront, zero wheel hop, one trait I have noticed is the rev hang when changing from 1st to 2nd, I remember when I first test drove a MK7ST and on first gear change it lurched forward when charging from 1st to 2nd (driver error), no doubt the soft and squishy stock engine and transmission mounts soak up the movement but now things are much stiffer I find it takes that little bit more effort/concentration to do a real smooth 1st to 2nd gear change at low revs, I will admit I'm being extra ocd critical here.

When pressing on car feels so tight, gear changes are so precise again with zero wheel hop, if you're getting regular wheel hop (as I was) you've got an issue with either RMM or Engine/trans mounts.
 
I have the Vibra-Technics Top RH Engine Mount and later had fitted Powerflex Transmission inserts, I can feel a tiny bit of extra vibration at idle, but very minor, I know it's there because I drive my lads ST with stock mounts and can notice less vibration on idle.

After fitting the VT Top Engine mount I could hear an occasional knock/vibration on initial start-up which seemed to be coming from behind the dash, bulkhead area, fitting the Powerflex Transmission inserts sorted this, I reckon if you're going to stiffen up one side of the engine you should do the other side.

So now I have VT top mount, Powerflex trans inserts and CP RMM and car feels very tight upfront, zero wheel hop, one trait I have noticed is the rev hang when changing from 1st to 2nd, I remember when I first test drove a MK7ST and on first gear change it lurched forward when charging from 1st to 2nd (driver error), no doubt the soft and squishy stock engine and transmission mounts soak up the movement but now things are much stiffer I find it takes that little bit more effort/concentration to do a real smooth 1st to 2nd gear change at low revs, I will admit I'm being extra ocd critical here.

When pressing on car feels so tight, gear changes are so precise again with zero wheel hop, if you're getting regular getting wheel hop (as I was) you've got an issue with either RMM or Engine/trans mounts.
Thanks for your input. I think I'll go for both mounts and just try to do the transmission one with a mate so we have twice the brain power ha
 
Mount has arrived. No damage thankfully. Hope get this fitted today. Also just a heads up if anybody wants one they are currently £135 on fleabay.
Been umm-ing and ahh-ing about getting the VT mount for a while now so thanks for the heads up on the price drop, just ordered one via Demon Tweeks on eBay (free delivery compared to their own site) :)

Whilst my Powerflex mount hasn't slipped out again since I refitted it, it does look like it's slumped backwards even further than before (maybe a total of 4-6mm overall) which can't be good in the long-run.

With used car prices being as silly as they are at the moment, I've decided I'll likely hang onto the Fiesta a little longer so should show it a bit of love and maybe cheer myself up and do a few of the mods I'd held off doing, thinking I was selling up.

I'll see how the upper mount goes and maybe look at an RMM in due course as I've always wished I fitted one sooner.
 
FFS, not having much luck with this :confused:

First mount that came, looked like it had been damaged in storage. The plastic was all torn and the black lower bracket had chips and marks in the black powder coat.

Demon Tweeks were great and sent a replacement mount out.

2nd one arrived today and looked fine from the outset, but once unwrapped the zinc coating on the top bracket has two big patches missing. Effectively this leaves bare steel exposed so will inevitably corrode come winter time.

They'd previously offered a 10% partial refund on the first bracket should I have kept it, but I've gone back to see if they can do any better on this one and I'll just have to put some paint on it.

Hopefully will get this fitted soon, can anyone confirm what the torque specs are? Online I've found 80 Nm for the three nuts on the engine and 48 Nm for the three bolts into the body but not 100% sure what the nut on top should be. I've seen someone say 50 lb/ft which is roughly 68 Nm is that correct?

Also, are you supposed to support the bolt from underneath when torquing, or are people just sending the nut?
 
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