[^netghost]

Yes, you have gone this far you have to do it, you know that otherwise you'll look at it everytime you open the bonnet. I'm sure you'll be able to bleed it out fine, probably a job that ForScan will help you out with.

Martin.

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Yes, you have gone this far you have to do it, you know that otherwise you'll look at it everytime you open the bonnet. I'm sure you'll be able to bleed it out fine, probably a job that ForScan will help you out with.

Martin.

Hi Martin,

Don't encourage me - lol.

I know your right, but I want to get more info b4 I pull it apart

Carried on with the enginebay strip out,

Unforunaly I missed a 10mm nut and cracked the panel

I'm sure I can plastic weld it back together ( unless of course someone who has stripped it out to race can supply )

Finally got round to removing the plastic inner wings

Really happy with how clean the underside of this cxar is compared with the other MK6's I've owned.

Will replace the solid brake pipes and hopefully find out how the looms are held in with these fixings tommorrow

 

[^netghost]

They do seem to say to plug the HCU to prevent fluid loss or dirt ingress in the manual here

Martin.

 

[^netghost]

That rectangular plastic bit is on a captive bolt, I think it just pulls off.

Martin.

 

[Marv_st]

Hi All,

I fancied an easy day today so started cleaning the enginebay

View attachment 600820

Its in pretty good nick. I'm not sure if what I'm removing is road grime or some kind of protective layer. There are some rust areas I need to treat but its not that bad.

Want to remove the brake servo as thers loads of CR*P behind it

View attachment 600821

Same for ABS pump

View attachment 600822

I'm a it concerned about removing the abs pump as I've heard horror stories about re bleeding, but the rust on the n/s of the engine bay needs attention, so I guess I don't have much choice.

Al

Just unbolt it and lift it up. IIRC I used a chain of cable ties to fix it to a wiper motor mounting hole to keep it out the way.

No need to bleed it.

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Just unbolt it and lift it up. IIRC I used a chain of cable ties to fix it to a wiper motor mounting hole to keep it out the way.

No need to bleed it.

Hi Marv,

Just want to clarify, when you say just unbolt "it" and lift it up, are you talking about the servo or abs pump, or both

Thanks

Al

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Hi All,

Went back 2 work Tuesday so havn't had a chance to do much

But, stripped out washer bottle, horn assy, abs looms and brake lines back to first solid joint

Also, trying to work out how to repair the two sheared bolts in the firewall.

It would have been nice if these were captive nuts as I could have drilled them out to accept new bolts, but they are captive bolts

I had a go at getting a small screwdriver round the foam inserts to try and see if there was space behind the panel to drill the bolt out and fit rivnuts, but it looks like the foam is fixed to the aircon and heater matrix pipework

Anyone got any bright ideas ?

thx Al

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Hi All,

Started doing a few little jobs, the miltek downpiope I got has a broken support bracket, I was going to get areplacement from Miltek, but its easy to make up a replacement

Al

 

[Marv_st]

Hi Marv,

Just want to clarify, when you say just unbolt "it" and lift it up, are you talking about the servo or abs pump, or both

Thanks

Al

Abs pump

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Hi All,

Theres my pocket money gone this month

Exhaust Gasket, studs & nuts
Serpentine belt tesioner
Sepentine belt idler
Water Pump
Flywheel Bolts
Rear Main oil seal
Front crank oil seal
Oil Cooler Gasket
Cam Lube
Timing Kit
Downpipe to cat gasket
Second hand PAS pump ( in mucj better condition than my old one )
Still waiting for serpentine belt
Have new thermostat housing
Have reconed Ally PFL coolant outlet which I'm hoping will fit
Have water outlet to head gasket
Have Full silicone coolant hose set ( black )
Have replacement Header Tank

So, I'm hoping ( unless I've forgotten something ) that I can stop spending and get on with cleaning and painting over the next few weeks.

I'm taking a punt on inlet manifold and throttle body gaskets as each is roughly £15 each

On the look out for firewall sound deadening as mine is pretty rough ( will ring Ford and either be pleasantly suprised or shocked - you never know )

Al

 

[Junglism93]

When I had the Inlet manifold etc off mine to do the pcv hose I swapped them out but the ones that came out were in good nick still and it was on about 135k at that time. Wether they were the originals or not I couldn't say but the pcv looked original enough when that came off so you should be okay. Think I paid £35 for the whole lot but that was a few years back now.

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Hi Junglism,

I did buy a set when I was planning on putting a cosworth copy inlet on my PFL, I'm hoping I kept them "safe" somewhere 😆 😆 😆 😆 😆 😆 😆 😆 😆

I bet I launched them though 🤣

Al

 

[Junglism93]

Ah! the old 'I know, I'll put them somewhere safe'. So safe, you'd have more chance of seeing a pig fly past than ever find them again 😂

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Hi All,

Made a start at doing the front main oil seal this morning, set up timing using locking pins and bar

All went smoothly until this point, when the battery died on the impact gun

I had been meaning to get a new one for some time, but as I hardly use it, didn't.
Hopefully a charge overnight will be ok, fingers x'd

Al

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Hi All,

There is something very strange going on with this airgun battery, put it on charge registering less than 25% charged. 10 mins later its showing fully charged, nah, tried it anyway and it spun the crankbolt off like it was finger tight

Timing cover removed,,
1 - because I really want to give it a good clean and respray.
2 - because I'm nosey and wanted to see inside

Learn't lessons of the past and put all bolts back in the correct positions

I had planned on putting Newman ph2 cams in tis engine from my PFL, but the grief putting that back to OEM spec has made me reconsider, maybe infuture

Oh, is there a specific sealant I need when I come to refit the timing cover ?

Thx Al

 

[^netghost]

I think it says Silicone Sealant to WSE-M4G323-A4 spec. from here.

Martin.

 

[alan ST Bentley]

I think it says Silicone Sealant to WSE-M4G323-A4 spec. from here.

Martin.

Cheers Martin,

Got some

Al

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Hi All,

Well, I went back to work late last week which has eaten into the time I've got to spend on the car

Rightly or wrongly I decided to treat as much of the engine bay surface rust as I could find. I know its not a final fix as I need to get in and grind rust out, but it makes me feel a bit better not looking at brownness everywhere

I tried everything to go along with @Marv_st advice to just pull the abs pump out of the way, but couldn't find anywhere I could manouvere it to that gave me clearance to get to attack the rust and get the sound deadening off, so again rightly or wrongly took it off.
I need to remove the bracket from the pump, then wrap it in cling film to stop any crap getting inside, I made sure I didn't rotate the pump so there is fluid inside

I need to get underneath later to unclip the fuel lines away from the bulkhead

Ford certainly didn't waste panther black paint when producing this car - If I was a "purist" I might look into what colour the "undercoat" was, but I'm not, I just want to stop the car rusting away, so its all going panther black

Last bit will be to take the servo off - I hate crawling around under dashboards, but Its got to be done.

Want to fit new sound deadening, I think there is zero chance of getting a decent second hand one, so a phone call to Ford is in order
Phoned them, part is obsolete no longer made. hmm, so I guess I need to be extra careful

Al

 

[alan ST Bentley]

Hi All,

After loads of hunting, finally found the correct bolts/washers to get the engine fitted to the stand and allow it to spin fully

pulled the sump off, maybe I shouldn't be so negative, but i was expectinbg a lot more sludge

Hopefully I can get my mate to aquablast the sump before it goes back on, I need to speak to him to find out if the baffles need to come out, I think they do

I'd like to get him to do the timing chain cover as well, but am concerned about the crank sensor removal/refit - found this, is it accurate enough ?

Thx - Al

 

[^netghost]

With the sound deadening, I'd probably buy the nearest available product and use the old stuff as a template to cut it, or choose a superior product.
Have you got a decent primer to use once the rust has been treated? I'd recommend epoxy primer, but most are two pack and you have to do it all at once, or the Bilt Hamber Electrox, which you can paint on with a brush and get into all the corners and do it as you go.

Martin.